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1

Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013, 03:25

Wie kultiviert man Amorphophallus konjac? Die Knollen werden oft kleiner statt größer.

I have long cultivated Amorphophallus time unsuccessfully. Had always an only a few-week growing season and the tubers were getting smaller or formed from no bulb, so I had knollenlose plants which have entered. I've tried many.
I had them on the window sill, where the hand strongly vergeilte. I had them at the East window are, because when my window is a large oak tree and a chestnut tree, where it is quite dark in the summer by the shadow.
For 2.5 years I care slightly more successful a new brood nodules, which was time 1 cm long. I said to myself with these nodules, you must learn to succeed. I've put the small nodules then end of April on the lighter balcony shortly after it had expelled. The sheet was not yet unfolded, so got no sunburn. I have fertilized it neatly and in autumn, she had made a triple major tuber, she then had a diameter of 2.5 cm. For me, that was a reason to cheer.

The summer was cool and rainy. Last year the tuber drove out quite late in may, needed however two months because of the very cool weather on the balcony to unfold the sheet. The leaf moved again after a month, so the beginning of August. The last summer was even cooler than the previous, from May to September there was no sun but only rain. There was only a summer's day in August, where just the thermometer for a day rose to 26 ° C. I live in the Harburg Mountains, where it is cooler and Rainier than in downtown Hamburg. My Amorphophallus had formed a new bulb but after three months of vegetation has grown but not, but slightly smaller than the old one. The old tuber has been preserved. This year the tuber mid-April began to drift. The first weekend were somewhat mild and sunny, so I out put them on the balcony so that she do not fast. But until now, still no sheet shows. The drive is growing extremely slowly. He catches just to pierce the surface of the Earth. The Kolle is about 2.5 cm deep in the soil. The drive is only about 2mm in one month, I fear that this year again is nothing if the weather like last year is twice as cool. At the time, is very cold and rainy.
I was last year in October in Bern/Switzerland, where I saw Amorphopallus konjac in tubs, the end of October not indented and the sheet was still beautifully green. In the Switzerland, the weather had been better and much warmer and sunnier as still very summery cool Hamburg and in October.

I have found already in vain konjac wanted, unfortunately only reports on the Internet according to care instructions for Amorphophallus, where people show proud their plants with enormous tuber growth. But apparently, they make a secret of the fact how they get this concluded.

Rather, I have the problem to have at all a tuber growth. Often, the plant grows only a few weeks. I'm assuming that it has to do with the sunshine and cool weather conditions.
Can you move the plant earlier than may to drive by earlier sets the tuber in the damp earth and then very hot is? My plant is constantly only at the stage of tubers and several months, i.e. vegetation time is 3 months and 9 months she rests.

I would highlight in addition in my residential area because of the darkness in early spring and the often sunless days so that they do not vergeilen. Then, it is difficult to get used to these plants to the Sun, if times summer will be times summer because room burn then easily plants driven from in the summer.
In this way previously all Amorphophallus entered me, because they were then even tubers and the old bulb was rotten.
How big must the pot in proportion to the size of the tubers be selected. I sometimes think that the pot was too large. I could not often be able to fertilize my plants because the Earth was barely dry. Apart, it rains here all the time and flushes away the fertiliser. To you by grow seedlings with artificial lighting and heat, so that the tuber times finally grows and not less! Would a room culture with additional lighting on the East or West window then make more sense because of the cool and wet weather?

Greetings Wolfgang

Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 3 mal editiert, zuletzt von »w_ciossek« (23. Mai 2013, 03:49)


2

Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013, 07:48

Hello Wolfgang,

first of all a warm welcome at the (or at least some) Amorphophilen of the Republic (and Moreover,...)!

Please write what you use for a substrate; Maybe a picture would be useful.

My opinion after much problems with the roots or root growth and, suggests what could be caused by poorly structured (too low pore volume) and not permeable substrate. Yes, you write that you come hardly to fertilize, because the substrate never dry is enough.
That the substrate is not dry, the main problem must not necessarily be, but the Lufmangel in the substrate or. Andean roots, which then do not grow or die.

See through to even the following pages:

What earth take you

Earth, the agony of choice

More posts "Substrate" is emerging in which:
http://www.Amorphophallus-Forum.de/index...hlight=Substrat

Also not uninterssant:
http://www.Amorphophallus-Forum.de/pfleg...hallus-f26/F12/

Happy reading, Bernhard.

3

Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013, 11:54

Hello

I agree Bernhard's opinion. A short vegetative period suggests that because what the Earth is wrong. Please use the search function of the Forum. There you will find a lot of information about the Earth.

Another reason may be lack of nutrients. So sometimes just look in the Forum.

4

Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013, 20:58

I had planted the plant a mixture of Sphagnum, Kokushum and pine bark and on fertilised. The roots were always very well developed and strong. The whole pot was greatly durchwurzelt. I have observed that very large pots adversely affects the formation of tubers, because the fertilizer is more diluted than in the smaller pots at some caudexbildenden plants. Strong root growth certainly know on a nutrient deficiency and although I manured with every watering. Due to the many rain I could hardly casting and thus fertilizing, otherwise the plants were rotten. At the time I have taken my Amorphophallus again from the balcony and in the warm room heating, in the hope that the sheet then faster drives.
When the substrates, I will peruse me times. In the meantime I have already noted the phosphorus-containing Depot fertilizer, tuberous growth is conducive for that. Now it comes me, to extend the growing season. I think that cool temperatures suggest a fall plants or retard growth in the spring. The plants grew better in warm years.

Greetings Wolfgang

Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 1 mal editiert, zuletzt von »w_ciossek« (23. Mai 2013, 21:18)


5

Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013, 22:11

The pot should have at least the triple diameter as the tuber. Fertilize one should the bulb every 7-14 days with a 0.3% nutrient solution. Are Starkzehrer and need a lot of food.

In and of itself, your soil is not so wrong. With Sphagnum, did you mean but determined peat substrate, or? Mix but still about 20-30% perlite with at the Earth. And your fertilizer seems to be good too.

Fertilizer dominated by p is always a good choice. This favors the growth of tubers. It would be ideal if the P value is twice as high, such as N and K

For example: 15-30-15 (FERTIPLANT ® 15 + 30 + 15)

It work as well as other commercial fertilizer without any problems. I've been using fertiliser (20-20-20, 10-52-10) and liquid fertilizers (Wuxal Super)

If you have the opportunity to make the plants light and rain protected, it would be ideal. By many rain, the Earth is permanent wetland and that is less than optimal. A canopy or similar would be a good alternative ICH let no rain on my plants, because I'm too afraid that the soil is too wet and the plant away

.

6

Freitag, 24. Mai 2013, 08:39

Hi together...

Sphagnum is still somewhat away from peat substrate, living or dead Sphagnum moss...;)
It is very fibrous and holds plenty of water, and in combination with Kokohum, that so much I is white, very fine, this is certainly not a happy solution. that would be me not loose enough and not enough structure stable.

You can compensate the swell effect when the fertilizing large pots by pouring on flow.
Maria has achieved thus yeah their monster tuber.
More details here from post #21:
Crop 2012

Happy growing, Bernhard.

7

Freitag, 24. Mai 2013, 15:09

Typical substrates for orchids are Sphagnum and pine bark. Sphagnum is even an airy and structured than white peat. Both ingredients and the Kokoshum Nährstofffrei are practical and can save these badly. The plant was well durchwurzelt is not a sign of a nutritional deficiency. Konjacs need a nutrient-rich substrate, E.g. Unit Earth, foliage soil or compost.
In one such substrate, how you've used it, a Konjac can rot little. You have a storage, but cannot be compared with Caudexpflanzen. Konjacs need a lot of water and do not allow dry out while down-but. A too small pot is clearly less favourable than a too large.

8

Freitag, 24. Mai 2013, 16:42

I think you did something well meant it with the substrate. Exotic needs has Amorphophallus konjac did not. Ordinary potting soil out of the bag already does it. If one pours much or it's cool like when friends, so that the pot slowly dries, an admixture of Perlite is certainly useful, I am doing with you everywhere in.

I've distributed Konjac tubers in the relationship and there was the largest increase in a bulb, stood outside and got lots of Sun, which was equipped with ample slow-release fertilizer (Osmocote ball band, similar to water lily fertilizer).
Gruß,
Christian

9

Freitag, 24. Mai 2013, 21:08

@Stinkmorchel. Now, where you say it, I find it scales from the eyes:D

Orchid substrate is, naturally, not at all. And that is also true with the lack of nutrients.

For Konjac is simple DIY Earth. So potting soil. Mixing it with pine bark, Holzohlengries and perlite, and that is enough then.

10

Samstag, 25. Mai 2013, 10:04

I almost consider weed A. Konjac. I use a mixture of ordinary potting soil and compost as substrate. The mixing ratio varies depending on the availability of components from 0-100 to 100-0 site semi-shade to full sun. Large planters, plenty of water, regular fertilizer (low-cost liquid product for balcony plants) and observed so far no remarkable differences in the growth.

Other species are certainly much more critical, but Konjac was previously always highly unpretentious, as long as there was ample food.

Greeting
Peter

11

Samstag, 1. Juni 2013, 01:26

Meanwhile, a drive which is about 2 cm long evident in me. 3 More thinner shoots come from the lower bulb of the penultimate year. Today I put it on the balcony in the Sun. What are your konjacs? To you by grow smaller plants without rest? Exorcise the plants sooner, keeping it moist and warmer?

Greetings Wolfgang

12

Samstag, 1. Juni 2013, 01:35

Hi, that with the by cultivating not really works for tubers. You have an internal clock and go in the autumn into winter dormancy. I had yet not tuber (even tiny), which I could cultivate through.
Only on seedlings, I know that.

Konjac can not hurt (slight) moisture and heat. Keep but not too moist. While still not a leaf as is, one can rot konjac.

13

Montag, 3. Juni 2013, 16:05

Licht

Hello

I think the main problem with the bulb growth is the amount of light. Since I have a pure indoor plantation (4th floor) I can't bring the tuber growth clearly with the distance to the window (i.e., the amount of light) in conjunction. Directly to the window, I have a 2-to 3-fold increase, from 1, 5 m from the window away the tubers stagnate and everything is in the room is small; only the "backups" are with me. To take into account is however also that the plants shade to each other. A wasted daughter tuber, which stands in the Sun it has now to almost 10 kg. done (which will need probably another 20 years in my apartment).

With regard to the substrate, so yes just konjacs are very begnügsam, I thought due to the high quantity of necessary ground take only cheapest DIY Earth. This year I started a a fungus me in some pots, thus, forming a Brown carpet of spores on the surface of the Earth. I wait but first before I beginning with fungicide, whether he really hurts the Amorphis.

What goes through cultivation, so I've brought so far once glossophyllus an A. over the winter, but was it the year before "Paused".

Love greetings

Michael

14

Montag, 3. Juni 2013, 18:02

This is probably was. Light is also important. Konjac is ideal but to grow outdoors in the bucket.

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