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With large tubers from about 1 kg, the spatha always breaks here in the late afternoon. Otherwise, the flower begins to wilt at the latest the next evening, but often already from noon. Only with the Lake Tana form the flower lasts 3 to 4 days but the spatha does not look really beautiful from the 2nd day.

So the next time you want to take pictures, it's better to do it early or at least in the morning.

So if you do this carefully, I don't see any problems. On the other hand, from my own experience, I don't necessarily see a problem in letting it be. The lizard roots are not that sensitive again. However, I do not know the state and nature of your earth.

For me, Sauromatum (venosum|giganteum|horsfieldii) and Konjac never see perlite at all. Cheaper is enough. I use the earth from last year again and mix in new ones at most. As a rule, only what is last released into the earth in spring gets completely fresh soil. Then the old one has long since been all.

Hello

I have also broken new ground this year with the care of giganteum and venosum "Tana Lake".
Both species grow surprisingly well with me.
However, the nodules were still quite young and will only be kept in the greenhouse this year.
A giganteum has even burned its leaves. Full sun tolerates this species so certainly times badly.

I'll wait and see what the gains are.
Next year they will come to the terrace.

Regards
Roy

For Giganteum, full sun is indeed far from ideal. Nevertheless, this year they coped better than expected with the completely sunny location. Because 2 years ago, when I started with them, I had to change them. Since they only got in the early afternoon just under 2 hours of direct sun, but in the yard the heat accumulates there.

The leaves look totally ugly and are partly already when moving in. A few leaves have also been off for a few days. However, I am not worried about the growth. The plants had almost all 3-4 huge leaves and the soil surface in the pots is arched upwards in places, which suggests good tuber growth.

What annoys me a little, however, is that there are of the 10 largest brood tubers (Whereby, as brood tubers you can not call most of them actually, because they had already a year as an independent plant behind them, but had thanks to late budding [partly only in September] no growth) one not at all and one only sprouted when the others already had 2 leaves and partly already pushed the 3rd and the shoot then also meager Failed. On the other hand, the smaller brood tubers sprouted completely, even those from the previous year, which, despite warm storage since last spring, showed no inclination to drift at the time of planting.

I don't leave as much space in the pots as possible and usually store it in a cool and dry place, if possible. Only such things Atroviridis, Operculatus, Ferroginosus and the Amophophallus dwarfs I store warm and dry. G. boivinii and ochroleucus is only potted out for control or substrate change and then immediately comes back into the pot.

Storage in the refrigerator is only a stopgap solution if there really is no other way. When open, there is a risk of dehydration, and in a closed container there is a risk of mold growth and rot due to high humidity and condensation. The danger could be averted by packing the tubers in the container in dry absorbent substrate.

Typhonium giganteum and Sauromatum venosum, also the Lake Tana form, are really easy. When the leaves have turned yellow and can be detached from the tuber, simply dig up/pot out the tubers, roughly clean them of root and old tuber residues and then put them in the cellar. In any case, cool and dry, then nothing dries up.

HelloBaotanicus,

warm is relative - how much °C is it?

Happy storing, Bernhard.

Hi Botanicus,

yes, the leaves align with the light, so they get the most light for photosynthesis.
And yes, they can also straighten up again if you turn the pot, for example; this happens faster with young growing plants than with older ones; if you turn a pot by 1/3 every day, they will grow as if they are always getting light from above...

Happy growing, Bernhard.

So I haven't found a patent remedy yet to safely prevent snake-shaped stems. There is a phase of particularly rapid growth in growth, where it is better not to miss the right time to turn. A third once a day doesn't fit at all. Sometimes you have to shoot several times a day. Then there is also the question, when is the right time? In addition, the plant will continue to lean in the same direction after turning. So the reaction is also delayed.

Often I get a reasonably straight growth. Sometimes, however, this does not work at all. Even outside, depending on the location, the leaves lean more or less towards the light. In the case of lizard roots, there is also the fact that the leaves, if there are several, lean to the side anyway. Only rarely are several of them almost vertical. These are usually small plants or a larger one in which the 2nd leaf is a straggler and small compared to the first.