Amorphophallus-Forum.de

Hello Tom,

So, at least in my experience, you don't have a chance. With me, konjacs usually only drift out when many others are already talking about the harvest... so very late, for whatever reason.

From the resulting space problem in the autumn, I have already tried everything possible to get them to epel out in time, so far without success. Light watering, potting or even warming, at times everything combined with each other... Result: I have repeatedly lost tubers due to rot.

It is and always remains, at least with me, a game of patience that I lose often enough. On the other hand, I think that the resting phase is extremely important for the plant, as with others a cool phase, deadline or the like, so that they come back all the stronger.

But I have to say that I have only been there for a few years. Perhaps someone else has had very different experiences.

Greetings, Ralf

Hello Tom,
pouring and warming may not be enough, I have this year a haematospadix and gallaensis could not get to shoot, although they were treated exactly like the other Amorphophallus (temp / humidity). A. yuloensis had once taken a 3-year rest...
Michael

Hello in the round,

this has been discussed many times, but as far as I know, there is no sound evidence.
Not even whether it is a real calm at konjac, where the shoot is inhibited by whatever.

In many plants, abcanic acid plays a role, which inhibits the shoot of vegetative buds and which must be broken down in order for the bud to expel.
Various factors can work, such as temperature (cold (vernalization), heat, day length, ethylene, etc.)

I don't know what matters at konjac.
I haven't found any literature about it either.

The effect of a 1-month exposure of the tubers of Amorphophallus muelleri was investigated here:
https://rjls.ub.ac.id/index.php/rjls/article/view/142
The article can be downloaded as pdf....
The conclusion seems to be that exposure of the tubers promotes the shoot.

For konjac, I would then summarize that the tubers should be stored bright and warm in order to achieve the early shoot possible.
In order to further investigate the influence of gibberillinic acid and ethylene (see bottom left), further experiments would have to be made.

Here you can also read:
http://www.amorphophallus-forum.de/wecke... us-f26/t391-f47
A. yuloensis is still asleep

Strange that you can't find any more or reliable information about this....

Unhappy, Bernhard.

I can't say what effect the exposure of the tubers has, because the comparison is missing. That tubers react shows the formation of chlorophyll by light in the bright tubers, in the images consimilis. I suspect it will be similar with dark tubers, but you don't see it.
The tuber in the pictures lay open about 10 days after the harvest, the change is good to see.
Michael

Hello Tom,

You don't have to read the English-language article hard....

In keywords:

The tubers were exposed for one month with 0, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24 hours/day at 400 lux; after that was planted (or potted).

Compared to the dark variant (0 h exposure), the bud height and the bud diameter increased in all variants (with a slight dispersion, which, however, could not be secured statistically).
The same was true for other parameters (leaf stalk diameter, leaf height, diameter, tuber diameter and weight) during harvesting.

As a conclusion, one can only take with it that exposure brings advantages over storage in the dark.
So store bright and warm rather than dark and cool.....

Happy growing, Bernhard.