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1

Samstag, 29. Juni 2019, 13:08

Am. bekommen gelbe Blattränder

Hello

many of my most. Plants have gotten color changes at the edge of the sheet. I mean, as something not saw in the years before that.
Can anyone tell what could be the reason?

The weather this summer was wonderful until now; very warm and sunny. The plants get direct sun 6 h per day about. Too much sun?

Many greetings
Olvi

index.php? page = attachment & attachmentID 5261 = index.php? page = attachment & attachmentID = 5260

2

Samstag, 29. Juni 2019, 13:57

Hello
for me it looks like sunburn
... and the pots are not riding small? can also be deceiving in the picture
I made the experience, the greater the pot, they are more resistant.
Let's see what do the pros here:-D

3

Sonntag, 30. Juni 2019, 11:19

Hello Aurora,
if the sunburn is, it is probably too late to do something about it.

That the pot is too small :icon_thumbs1: is a good observation, thank you.
Until now, I have seldom bigger tubers than ... Harvested 4 cm.
I always thought the cause was too little light.
In 2020 I will try with bigger pots.

Greeting Olvi

4

Sonntag, 30. Juni 2019, 11:32

Hello Olvi,
I am thinking of sunburn less, rather drought or deficiency. Sunburn would not be so uniform only from the leaf tips.
How long has the paper been standing? Is it possible that he is already starting to move in? Look at what the leaf looks like in the backlight, there are usually also bright spots to be seen, and whether the trunk is already softer.
Larger pots are a good throw-in which are very beneficial to growth.
Greetings
Michael

5

Sonntag, 30. Juni 2019, 11:40

You could even now repot the plants if there are still no signs of feeding.

6

Sonntag, 30. Juni 2019, 18:21

As always, I have documented everything completely. :icon_sauer:
I mean, that the blade is fully there for 2 months.
The first 4 where it looked green and fine, but started it to be yellow in early June.

Insert the plant does not, the root is (stone) hard and I see no bright spots on the underside of the leaves.
Diameter of the tuber at the pot on the 1.4 was 2 cm.

I fertilized did not, perhaps, the plant has consumed where the food in the pot in four.
At the high temperatures (+ 30 ° c), it is possible that I have given is not enough water. I haven't seen hanging toothless leaves.

I have given today 20-5-10(+2) Hakaphos Grün plants and repot a try.
If this helps, how fast can I see a change?

Greeting Olvi

7

Sonntag, 30. Juni 2019, 22:41

The yellow or even almost white spots are probably no longer repairable. This looks better with the places that are still rather green but already brightened. I can hardly say how quickly fertilisation will be visible. At that time several years ago with the myrtle in Hydro, an improvement was already visible after about 3-4 days. But I had already reacted at the first signs (smaller and lighter leaves at the shoot tips).

8

Montag, 1. Juli 2019, 11:13

Hello Olvi,
they are not too dry or too humid? Both also cause yellow leaf tips; because what to change would be my first thought.
Michael

9

Montag, 1. Juli 2019, 11:29

Hello Olvi and everyone else,

I would not necessarily rule out sun damage, because on two Arisaema fargesii I find quite similar symptoms:

index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=5264 index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=5265

On other pots, which stand more shady and get less sun, I do not find the brightened leaf tips.

Olvi, a larger pot and fertiliser would certainly be worth a try, but I suspect more of an irradiation damage.

In the past few days, the radio has repeatedly pointed out extremely high UV radiation and the whole thing near Hanover near Temmperaturen of over 30, yesterday 37 °C.

My IG already shows the Balttrandnecrosen, which actually occur again and again in hot summers, even though I see the plant in a 90-L container and are poured abundantly every day. index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=5266

The conditions are really extreme at the moment...

Happy growing, Bernhard.

10

Montag, 1. Juli 2019, 14:48

a very precise explanation could only confirm an analysis - but this seems to me rather not sunburn - these are rather fertilizer deficiency symptoms - but I guess rather heat-related with stressful situations - to a calcium deficiency - this is with many cultures...

but if you don't know exactly what you're doing - then I'd leave it as it is - because with some x-belibigen lime or something, fertilizing to start with topfkulturen is a saublöde idea because you fertilize too much and thereby change the ph worth too badly and then much more is skinned than helped...

if it's really only ca - then don't do anything else - because in the tap water is normal anyway half-way ca in it that it doesn't get worse - and in the worst case "only" doesn't look nice - but the plant will survive without further ado...

11

Montag, 1. Juli 2019, 18:35

My biggest IG has the same damage as bernhard's picture. It stands in the sun and gets a lot of water. During the day, when the sun is intense, a few leaf feathers roll together and take the form of a palachinke (crepes) - even though the earth is wet. I also believe that the sun is too strong at the moment.

At the Am. Plant it is more difficult. I have a larger plant in a large pot that has got fertilizer but less sun, and looks beautifuldark green.
Perhaps you are all right; the damage is caused by a stressful situation, by the combination: too much sun, fertilizer deficiency and fluctuations in humidity in a too small pot? What is in our tap water I once heard but forgotten again.
Let's see what a big pot does.

Greeting Olvi

12

Sonntag, 14. Juli 2019, 20:07

Update
Now it is 2 Where since the repotting. The white spots have increased in size but the plant looks stronger. Maybe the earth was really too wet. I also believe what Lord.Maso says, the plant will survive.

I didn't take pictures (dirty fingers) while repotting, but the pot was slightly depleted and overflowing with white roots, brood arms and small tubers. The pot was already too small. Nutrients were probably no longer available in the substrate. With the amount of light and heat, the plant must grow extremely quickly.

Sauromatum venosum says that the pot size is 3... 4 times the size of the tuber, when potting. '
Is there a similar rule for amorphophallus, e.g. Konjak? 10 times?
index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=5287 now index.php?page=Attachment&attachmentID=5288 before 2 Where

Greeting Olvi

13

Sonntag, 14. Juli 2019, 23:44

10-fold is plentiful, wherefor a 1 cm lump is a 10-piece pot Ok. In the end, however, it may even prove to be too small. I read somewhere from a user who made it to just under 150 g. Such a tuber then has about 6-7 cm in diameter and should blow up the 10-pot together with the roots and brood-knollen/arms. This looks like there on the 4th picture.

The larger the tuber, the smaller the ratio can be. But I wouldn't go under 2 times the tuber diameter when it is a pot size. (3)4-5 (6) times the tuber diameter depending on the tuber size is normally sufficient. If the plant develops better than expected, it can still be repotted. Oh yes, I would always use the inner diameter of the pots.

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