Amorphophallus-Forum.de

Hi Ralf,.

Blue is actually not a slow-release fertilizer; as soon as the first extensive rain top is or poured the "grain" dissolve and the contained mineral fertilizers enters the water in the soil and are usually immediately available to plants.

I take sheathed Langzeitdüger only for water lilies in the bucket, I have never taken that for Amorphophallus, but it is possible, of course.
There are Yes with different duration. At the levels of würdeichmich just keep the instructions.

Happy growing, Bernhard.

Hi, Ralf

That you the fertilization hardly can exaggerate, I believe that less. Where far me known to respond to leaf, as well as the roots immediately with significant damage if you put too much. But there also the experience of others would interest me.

LG at all.

Hello
I now no longer use fertilizer in high doses as before, since I had really overfertilised a plant.
The concentration of fertilizer had been so high that the plant (A. tonkinensis) was no longer able to absorb water and literally as dried up (reverse osmosis??). She was no longer to save.

At the time, this was my only plant of its kind and I could get it through leaf cuttings.

Since then, I use very little fertilizer (to feel) and tuber growth has become not worse.
I've tried various fertilizers. In the growth of the plants I've to determine so far no differences.
Many greetings
Ortwin

I do this also in an irregular change between ungedüngt and fertilized casting. If fertilizer then more precisely not it goes with 1000-1600 µS, with my measuring caps, but never complaints and growth is also OK.
Michael

Hello in the round!

So I'm excited to Yes always difficult if someone even fertilize...

But in the überdüngen seriously, Ralf, is sure easy; I would go as not about 0.3%, so 3 g / L; usually I take 0.5-1 g / litre, but then at any or every second but far less, or 4 or 6 casting; in the summer häufger in rare winter. I'm now even more intuitive as Ortwin.

Ortwin, do you still the amount with which you "have dried out the tonkinensis"?

Ralf, what of the overdoing it - I mean to have provoked no fertilizer or salt damage.
Sometimes I think that I make it but sometime when I think I come to my Indian giant let how much blue corn.
A good handful of a 90-liter Mason bucket and going several times more frequently, as soon as the fertilizers is dissolved.
I have given pretty much blue grain also my first big konjac; here to see post #15: Search konjac
The result is here to see post #39: harvest of 2018

To supply the plants well and to avoid Düngeschäden a Fertigation with very low concentrations would certainly be the best solution; See also here: Fertigation

Happy fertilizing, Bernhard.

BES from #21 post is interesting in the context of also this thread,
Crop 2012

Hi Ralf,.

no reason for a sorry...

It is always good if here in the Forum even more traffic

Happy growing, Bernhard.

Hi Bernard,.
I know the exact dose not anymore; but the pot of the plant was too small for the amount of fertilizer and I've noticed it too late that the plant dried up. The other Amorphophallus (in larger pots) survived it.
From my experience I have to say that fertilizing is important, but more important is the right location, temperature in tropical species, and the air humidity. With me an A. doubled E.g. this year gigas the weight of 170 g 345 g with only two fertilization fertilizer salt in the nutrient-poor coconut humus. You have to try as long as possible up to maintain the vegetation zone; as long as the blade is preserved, even the tuber is growing.
Many greetings
Ortwin

SERVUS together

On the pictures you can see 3 nearly 3-year-old Titans and the rest are about one year old seedlings.
On the single screen one of the young plants - the stalk has the base of the leaf over one meter.
Some of the young plants are now already higher than the older ones.

I explain to me - the older ones were fertilized little in the first cycle. I already germinated when she it, to fertilize them regularly looked at the young plants (with Wuxal) also they got from the outset also seaweed fertilizer.
Temperature, location, LF, fertilization, identical to the older plants that grew significantly better than the previous years. The older ones are in the 2nd phase of vegetation, average tuber weight was only 40, 50 grams at the end of the first phase. I burst almost with a curiosity when can the young plants in the initial quiet period and I examine the tuber.

The older ones were in the first cycle in potting soil/perlite mixture.
In the 2nd cycle, and the young plants even germination, exclusively in Seramis.

I have also tried to keep them longer in the journal - for the younger ones under the same conditions and casting behavior, as also in the past already with the older, smaller - that however hard... have been fertilized in the first cycle

So I think that the fertilization from the germination away (depending on the substrate of course) with the largest, if not plays the largest role.

I could make muelleri, variabilis, good Ergebinsse borneensis and bulbifer with - drawn from seed -. The resulting tubers were mostly between 50 and 90 grams...

LG, Sonja

Hi Sonja,.

very impressive! Chapeau

What does Homer Simpson to the plants?

Happy growing, Bernhard.

Prof. Frink presents a large plant...

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As well as all over Springfield... https://simpsonswiki.com/wiki/Sumatran_Century_Flower

Would they but too bad to put in the ventilation...
Michael

Is - there's a Simpsonswiki?
I'm old

Hello everyone!
I fertilize my plants partly with fertilizers, partly liquid.

I have an automatic drip irrigation where about half of my plants (mostly Chili) on it. These plants each get 40gr of potassium of stressed Osmocote with a maturity of 8-9 months if I pot them in May. Here in Franconia in the wine-growing regions reach the normal slow-release fertilizer with 5-6 term not over the summer months and are used at the latest in September.

The rest (Amorphophallus, citrus, Passiflora...) gets every day at the 0.1% fertilizer solution pour one summer (N: 18, P: 12 K: 18)... When I think how much water I just cant konjak at a major that is already a lot fertilizer. I had even no damage that I push on a eutrophication...
This year I want to expand the drip irrigation, then more plants are supplied with slow-release fertilizer. Just go, is pretty safe!
Greeting Tom

I give my substrate (coconut + perlite 3:1) Osmocote too, as it is extremely low in nutrients. In addition I Peter fertilizer's starter for the high proportion of phosphate plant. It had until now successful. However, I have no comparison of Osmocote fertilizer at all somehow in the weight falls, or were also without...

From time to time I meet Youtube videos where you use eggshells as long-term fertilizer.
It looks simple, but the comments on the video below are skeptical. When I think about it in the spring, I will try it. Unless someone has already tried and can tell me a clear disadvantage with the use.
At least the shells prevent some of the structural compaction of the substrate.

The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QG6jE-FkrZU

Greeting Olvi

The only thing that could be considered long-term fertilizer is the lime in the shell.