Sie sind nicht angemeldet.

Lieber Besucher, herzlich willkommen bei: Amorphophallus-Forum.de. Falls dies Ihr erster Besuch auf dieser Seite ist, lesen Sie sich bitte die Hilfe durch. Dort wird Ihnen die Bedienung dieser Seite näher erläutert. Darüber hinaus sollten Sie sich registrieren, um alle Funktionen dieser Seite nutzen zu können. Benutzen Sie das Registrierungsformular, um sich zu registrieren oder informieren Sie sich ausführlich über den Registrierungsvorgang. Falls Sie sich bereits zu einem früheren Zeitpunkt registriert haben, können Sie sich hier anmelden.

21

Mittwoch, 12. Dezember 2012, 15:58

Hi,.

the bowls are the reptile to feed animals are sold and I thought to myself that it already fulfil its purpose as a place.
They are 10.5 x 10.5 inches tall and approximately 5.5 cm high. I thought that's enough to get you started. Already the first roots on the ground show in Arisaema falvum. (By the way had a germination rate of rich 100% (26 of 26)).
The Indian Ginats and giganteums, still no roots show, although the shoots to the part are larger than in Arisaema flavum and include some previously have sprouted.
In other species, nothing has teamed up in the meantime by the way. But the Amorphophallus tenuistylis has her leaf fully developed and is about 6 cm high and 5.5 cm in the diameter.

Greeting
Manuel

22

Mittwoch, 12. Dezember 2012, 23:19

Moin - Moin Manuel,

the transplant is already a load.
Does mans not the seedlings take gegeseitig the force and failures are inevitable.
Does mans, it harms plants partly also irreversibly.
It is difficult to separate from the children.
Yet time so try it: put the flats completely in lukewarm water and rinse the substrate under light floats from the roots. Well, the plants can be root side without major damage.
The rinsed substrate you can mix even under the new, a portion of the water to the water take. And the kids don't realize that they have moved.

Green Greetings Uwe

23

Donnerstag, 13. Dezember 2012, 11:58

And for exactly the reason I vereinzel the seeds at the plug. Thus spared you transplant that is:D

24

Donnerstag, 13. Dezember 2012, 18:51

Hi,.

to save themselves while the transplant, but not just the place!
and is in short supply for me at the moment eh.

With the rinsing I find a great idea, I would have never even really on it.
Will holiday to try and report again, of course.
Tomorrow, I have again some time and again going to make pictures. A lot has happened since last time (at least with the Arisaema flavum and at the A. tenuistylis)
When form actually Amorphophallus the second leaves after germination. I've found that much in the Internet where Amorphophallus titanum already after a short time a second sheet was and my is fully unfolded about now for 6 months and by a second sheet is still nothing to see. At the A. paeoniifolius however, that went really quickly. About 2 months later came the second hand.
But I am indeed a very patient man :-D and will therefore wait, as well as on the other seeds of my breeding!:icon_explode:

Greeting
Manuel

25

Freitag, 14. Dezember 2012, 09:48

Shreck has not at all times so wrong. I read in a post that the germination on moist pulp is very practical. Should your Shreck help.
The best seedlings can then simply move into the substrate.
This method is also space-saving. Prob solved.
I'm also still out and back. Long germ time or extended time of germ due to poor temperature control, I had total failures due to mold however.
Because the tip of Bernhard with the fungicide in Cryo sleep-related is the solution.
Somewhere on an old hard drive, I have something else to. I rummage times.

Green Greetings Uwe

26

Freitag, 14. Dezember 2012, 14:57

So,.

now there are new pictures, but no new messages.
Has done nothing.:icon_nosmile:
But for this, I am pleased that so far none of the germinated seedling is entered.
Times again dumb question:
How long it takes the average Dracunculus, Amorphophallus, Arum and Helicodiceros sprout.
Will indeed slow somewhat nervous whether I might do something wrong or have done wrong.

Will me but be patient and enjoy me already germinated plants

Oh, the Arisaema flavum something long have, are but since germination in the terrarium with light, so don't ask me what that probably can be!:icon_blushnew:
Greeting
Manuel
»Konjacstämmchen« hat folgende Bilder angehängt:
  • Arisaema flavum.JPG
  • Sauromatum venosum `Indian Giant´.JPG
  • Sauromatum giganteum.JPG
  • Amorphophallus tenuistylis Blatt.JPG
  • Amorphophallus tenuistylis Blatt (Nahansicht).JPG

27

Freitag, 14. Dezember 2012, 15:10

Hi Manuel,

to Helicodiceros:

for me the first come out now after about 2 months, 3 units of 20 +
Source is the same as by friends

LG
Ronny

28

Montag, 17. Dezember 2012, 16:21

Hello

today once again good (actually already's news yesterday)
The first germ of Arum pictum SSP.. sagittifolium moves slowly from the Earth and at Helicodiceros mucivorus grew upwards the root of a seed, she've covered now. I will take pictures when also the Helicodiceros above the earth can be seen.
Still ne small question: if I not quite sure am, whether the seeds are too dry or too moist, then rather dry keep or just feeling a bit (but really only very little) pour. I ask therefore, because for me the substrate looks always very dry (also at the bottom), but the vessel is itself actually still pretty hard and dried seed is up already mal ne me and another rotten.
So: rather too dry or too humid?
Oh, and: how long must remain the Arum maculatum out there. Heard what about 3 months, I am not sure but. Or should I simply out there leave that until the spring, but I fear that they freeze to death. Or does the seeds of Frost (stand up already times about-15 degrees there in the night can get but a terrace near the wall in an unheated room, and the substrate completely freezes through!)

Greeting
Manuel

29

Montag, 17. Dezember 2012, 16:32

@Bert:

properly. I germs all the seeds in paper towels and then begin to grow, I vereinzel them in small 7 cm pots. Since then no root or something can get broken.

30

Mittwoch, 19. Dezember 2012, 07:38

Hi,.

Today discovered at sunrise (artificial).

IT GERMINATES ALSO A DRACUNCULUS CANARIENSIS!

Now, I am indeed curious whether the remaining species (Amorphophallus henryi, Arisaema taiwanense and Arum maculatum-> stands but still cold) is soon a drive shows. At the same time, I hope also that it will be even more, because at the on the 17th of December at the other and today a copy of so far only germinated types described above. Am but confident, Derry also everywhere at least 65% germination rate. When the Arisaema flavum even 100%.
HAB 3in yesterday as well, but the Arisaema flavum hang quite nicely. Am slightly shocked that are on again or not? But I hope it!:icon_gott:
So not all of 26 hang it only 6 pieces (habs just counted)
Well, if not, I'm very sad, but then that just has natural choice once again slammed.

Greeting
Manuel

31

Donnerstag, 27. Dezember 2012, 16:40

Hi,.

Once again a double post of mine, but I wanted to show you the new images be sure (a lot has happened!)

I donated today a new UV lamp the plant, because the energy saving lamp is no longer sufficient in the middle of the terrarium. They grew all totally crooked, and some even upset. You have again raised but after the lamp is switched on and oriented itself towards the light.

Just in time for Christmas by the way 3 H. have appeared canariensis muscivorus and 2 D. (namely within only 2 hours)

Times a small intermediate result so that one keeps the overview:
It have germinated so far:

26 of 26 Arisaema flavum:D
13 of 20 Sauromatum venosum Indidan giant
4 out of 21 Dracunculus canariensis
4 out of 24 Arum pictum SSP.. sagittifolium
3 out of 11 Sauromatum giganteum (of which however 2 look not so great)
5 out of 22 Helicodiceros muscivorus
at least. 1 out of 8 Amorphophallus henryi (has washed while pouring out of the ground, was not deep enough so, and already had a small green train)

Not have germinated so far:

0 of 14 Arisaema taiwanense:icon_frown:
0 of 29 Arum maculatum (up on the terrace but still cold spring)

I am so far really quite satisfied, because the previously attempted Palm and banana seeds had a total germination rates by a whopping 0%!:icon_lol:

But think that when this seed is still more in it and the Christmas seedlings were definitely not the last.

Oh yeah, when the close view of Arum pictum SSP.. sagittifolium, it is worth mentioning that the leaf is much darker and beautiful light grey stripes on the sheet can be seen. My pictures are generally not that great, and also because my Handykammera has a jump the light stupid to the snap photo is.

Greeting
Manuel
»Konjacstämmchen« hat folgende Bilder angehängt:
  • Komplette Zucht.JPG
  • Hinten Sauromatum venosum, Vorne Arisaema flavum.JPG
  • Dracunculus canariensis.JPG
  • Helicodiceros muscivorus.JPG
  • Arum pictum ssp. sagittifolium.JPG
  • Arum pictum ssp. sagittifolium Blatt Nahansicht.JPG

32

Donnerstag, 27. Dezember 2012, 18:07

Palm and banana seeds a whole germination rates by a whopping 0% had!


Hello
Palm trees and bananas need usually very long (several months or a year) to the sprout, has a very long time until my palms are germinated, but now I have more than enough date palms, but I doubt that will ever carry with us fruits.
How long do you have seeds already in the Earth? At the moment I'm also already most consider whether seeds on the compost you want to throw my pots with red stem Palm trees and pink bananas or whether they decide yet to germinate, or whether who purchased seeds were already too old. She have ausgesäht in the Frühahr until now nothing stirs unfortunately.

33

Donnerstag, 27. Dezember 2012, 18:49

Hi Seiti,.

the Palm seeds I had warm almost 1.5 years stand and naturally lit (greeting to the electricity bill :D )
The banana seeds were only nine months, because then the whole earth was full with any transparent worms and I have thought that anyway because nothing would germinate. I then dug and found no seeds at all!
Therefore, I am overjoyed when I sow saw the first seedling in my current Araceae after only 2 weeks.

Greeting
Manuel

34

Samstag, 12. Januar 2013, 19:52

So,.

I was now just a week and behold... a few plants push just your 2nd hand.:D
By D. C., there are already 6 pieces and the Indian giants, there are already 4. Otherwise, much has changed: there were added some new seedlings (but unfortunately not from Amorphophallus henryi and Arisaema taiwanense).
What also struck me, the Arum pictum SSP.. sagittifolium have pronounced all different drawings, as a seedling. is crossed over almost the entire leaf with white stripes, for another, it is only the central part, and also just a bit. Changes that again later or just stay some more and some less well?
Also I have now even ne very, very urgent question :icon_help: : power it the Arum maculatum what from, if the substrate constantly alternating freezes through and becomes warm again? Weather in Bayern plays namely at the moment very beautiful crazy. Times times cold again, snow and permafrost. And I'm afraid that the seeds of this somehow break down.

Here again new images of the entire terrarium:-D

Greeting
Manuel
»Konjacstämmchen« hat folgende Bilder angehängt:
  • Dracunculus canariensis.JPG
  • Dracunculus canariensis 2. Blatt.JPG
  • Arum pictum ssp. sagittifolium.JPG
  • Arum pictum Zeichnung.JPG
  • Helicodiceros muscivorus.JPG
  • Arum flavum & Sauromatum venosum Indian Giant.JPG
  • Sauromatum venosum Indian Giant 2. Blatt.JPG
  • Komplette Anzucht.JPG

35

Samstag, 2. Februar 2013, 18:30

Hi,.

I've handle now all my seedlings and now the terrarium is filled to the brim with young plants. But since a few weeks, I observe the following:
:icon_help: :icon_help: :icon_help:
Individual seedlings are initially only slightly whitish (chlorophyll withdraws) and suddenly completely Brown and then after a few days simply disappeared!
Is this normal or I have to change something serious to my attitude? The temperature is about 18-20 ° C. The humidity at about 60-65%. The Earth is mixed with normal (pretty fine) potting soil with perlite. This can be possibly because that some young plants that transplant have not quite so well tolerated?
Please help me so that I lose not even my entire Green splendor!:icon_help:
I just checked, I do find the most Brown plants for Arisaema flavum. (8 pieces disappeared from 26)
Have I sown now by the way again canariensis Dracunculus, but this time in Jiffy - pots, because that have root mass after their second hand, which is indeed madness!:icon_shocked:

Greeting
Manuel

36

Samstag, 2. Februar 2013, 21:30

Hello Manuel,

This is difficult to answer, since the symptoms are fairly non-specific.

The transplanting inevitably violate roots. If then certain fungi (Pythium etc.) in the substrate are, there may be cases of. at seedlings is called that for example Gratin or accident illness.
However, sterile substrate helps or you can pour it prophylactically and also curative with a fungicide (E.g. Polyram).

If you now many failures are increasing, I would pour in your place with as a fungicide; Best in a Raiffeisen market or similar, ask for a medium, that to the vegetable or ornamental plant cultivation can be used.

Happy growing, Bernhard.

37

Sonntag, 17. Februar 2013, 15:38

Thanks for the tip!

Because no additional plants were infected but I assume as something experienced beginners times, simply were the weakest, and these were sorted out so of course. But even a very stupid mishap happened again: :motz: I have my Dracunculus canariensis right after the transplant under the UV lamp. When I came home the next day by the work of the shock hit me. Many yellow and Brown leaves in the terrarium. To the fortune has any D.c. still depending on a reasonably green leaves and I hope that that get soon a new or who get no more than 2 pages in the beginning?
The Indian Giants schauts this quite well off. One is already their 4th leaf with the typical little dotted pattern on the petiole.
Generally, I have to say that my Jungpflanzendschungel has become quite skinny.
I can give so unfortunately no longer as many seedlings as I had before.
I'll images in the run again next week make ( :icon_explode: a picture of destruction in the comparison to the last picture :icon_nosmile: )

38

Sonntag, 17. Februar 2013, 23:38

Why a UV lamp?
Behind a window, they get but also UV free light, because the glass panes of the window, UV-A and UV-B filter.

I would either put the sprouts on a windowsill or directly under a fluorescent lamp that is the light color "cool white" or "daylight"
As the seedlings can be up to a few inches closer. Measure of the tube would be da 860 and 865


I use a 70 Watt metal halide lamp from the nursery need for "special" plants for my plants for breeding;)

39

Dienstag, 19. Februar 2013, 16:19

Need plants, especially plants, because no UV?
With the window-sill, that is obviously, but I have other forums looked after, because I was me just from the outset unsure whether the small need of special light or not. And there always UV lamps to the young plant cultivation have been touted. Now, I know also that tube for artificial lighting are suitable, did with Yes even one in captivity inside, is a tube for the reptile and in the animals, the plants grow so well and so I thought, because the UV lamp not really illuminates the entire terrarium that I added with switch still a tube. I will then turn off the UV lamp or tempering or against a normal (bright, due to the light) energy-saving lamp replace? It is in the darkest corner of my room, the window sill is already full of pop and drum I need light much much until it is finally warm outside (come please soon, spring!) :icon_gott: )

Greeting
Manuel

40

Dienstag, 19. Februar 2013, 18:03

No, they need the right light colors;)

Light with an increased proportion of blue are suitable for farming.

There are energy-saving bulbs "Daylight" with 6400 Kelvin from 70 Watt upward (from the cannabis grow area) from Elextrox
Or but metallic hydride lamps (from 70 Watt) up. For example, from grow in Gerlin (GiB)

If you prefer cheaper, takes regular T8 fluorescent tubes in the light color "cool white", or "Daylight" the figures would have to be 860 and 865.
If you need more light, just these T8 lighting beams from the hardware store take and connect in parallel.

Here for example:

EBay #1
EBay #2
EBay #3
EBay #4

On such fluorescent tubes can be be plants up to a few inches. Thus, they get plenty of light without burning. Then asparagus the nor.

There is also the thinner T5 tube need but other light beams, which are more expensive.

UV light is harmful for the seedlings. This burn tender seedlings.


In short, UV light, connect in parallel several fluorescent tubes and the plants are very close on the tube ran. Less than 10 cm. And pay attention to the correct code of the tubes.

Zurzeit sind neben Ihnen 2 Benutzer in diesem Thema unterwegs:

2 Besucher

Übersetzen:

  Deutsch  Englisch  Dänisch  Spanisch  Persisch  Französisch  Kroatisch  Italienisch  Japanisch  Niederländisch  Polnisch  Russisch  Schwedisch  Türkisch 

Translation powered by Bing Translation

Sie sind nicht angemeldet. | Anmelden | Registrieren | Passwort vergessen ?