Amorphophallus-Forum.de

Hello

of course, we can help you. What you have there, is called in Latin of Amorphophallus konjac.

A way to lasting very easily.

Fertilize properly in the summer (every 2-3 weeks) and in the autumn, the tuber repels the sheet. This means that it is then yellow. Pour from there to the set.

If the paper is received, you can store the bulb dry (without substrate) at 15 degrees.

The bulb begins to sprout again in the spring. Only when a growth of the shoot is, again dig the tuber and easy to pour.

You can do much as wrong.

The bulb is growing from year to year and this produces daughter tuber you will also find in the pot.

For further questions always thus.

MfG
Stephan

So during storage, it doesn't matter whether light is here or not. In nature is the tuber always in the ground. Since then no light comes ran.
I have to be always in the closet.

It is important for the storage that the bulb is kept absolutely dry, otherwise she may rot.


Yes the plant is toxic in all parts. So please make the child not munching

Amorphophallus species prefer half schattige places. They not so much like full sun. You can provide also out in the summer on the balcony or garden. If the plant per day 2-3 hours Gets the full sun and then only indirect Sun, is not a problem.

But I personally would make not so, that it is in full sun all day.

Amorphophallus konjac can be kept easily even in full sun. I've had very good experiences so that (up to 14 h Sun in summer). Who but does prefer other garden plants in the Sun, is as well served with Penumbra on konjac as Shreck said.
We must make real gross what wrong that the plant "thanks it thee with a lesser tuber growth". Rain in summer accounts for konjac just like cool temperatures. It is simply a great plant

One would be worth mentioning.

As Earth use please humoses, sewing fabric substrate in which mix with perlite, to make it airy.

Cheaper DIY earth it can happen that the substrate pour times after a couple is too close and then does not have enough oxygen to the roots comes. Then, the tuber can rot.


So never save the Earth.

MfG
Stephan

With very good care and good luck, you can inenrhalb the plant of 2 periods of growth from a small Cormel (< 10 g) tend to bloom-ready size. Usually, it takes but 3, 4 or even 5 years.

After flowering, it need a couple of weeks until the plant pushes back a hand (still in the same summer). It can also happen that the tuber is a break until next spring. During flowering, it should be not potted. Then at root growth to the new shoot pot up.

To specify that A. may be konjac in full sun, want I have to add, that the plant should have made from your hand for best in full sun, or otherwise at least slowly accustomed to the Sun must... otherwise it can happen easily that scorched the sheets. Also be careful in full sun particularly on sufficient Giesen.

Otherwise once again at this point welcome in the Forum.

Yes, because for example Amorphophallus albus would be or, if it also what not Amorphophalliges may be, Typhonium venosum. Both robust species, which forgive some mistakes. Typhonium venosum you get kicked behind everywhere every autumn since they produce as many primary Cormels.

If you know English, then I would www.aroid.org you on the heart read.


In particular this page it is interesting:

http://www.aroid.org/genera/generapage.p...=Amorphophallus

No you don't go. They are too heavy.

Just go at the hardware store and you buy a bag of balancing fill. This is nothing other than perlite.


"Perligran" or "Isoself" means either, I have the Isoself

With us means I think heat insulating fill.

I use also Isoself. While I had landed after I had read some positive experience this and wanted to make a even no experiments. Tends to be one must look for when buying of Perlite for insulation purposes probably out, that this is handled, because there is gerüchten effect also with bitumen steaming, which absorbs no water, what would be rather less advantageous for our purposes. In my former search for perlite I was encountered first in the hardware store heat insulation grain of Fermacell. Because you could tell me on the spot, whether the perlite is treated, I had telephoned times with the manufacturer. The perlite from Fermacell is at least not bitumen steamed, but is given in a binder to reduce dust. I was told though, that this also in the food industry to use would be and even from the own employees is used to in the garden on the beds to relax... was me then but too suspicious, so ultimately I've taken to Isoself where I of course don't know whether maybe also binders are given in this.

Moin HerrR,

So how dusty Isoself, I do not believe that there is any Bindenmittel; but maybe you should write once an email Knauff, so that they can come out.
But rather, I have the impression that Isoself and perlite/Perligran for horticulture (formerly there was even Agriperl) only are different names for the same thing.

The bitumen-coated Isoself means Bituperl - more information here (under the various systems you can find the different formulations of Perlite): http://www.knauf-perlite.de/

Maybe even Estroperl would be interesting to the pure relaxation of substrates because it absorbs no water; to the plant performance one would have to ask again Knauff...

What I didn't know is, so abundant that you boosting the Greek economy through the purchase of Perlite ( http://www.knauf-perlite.de/industrie/rohperlit.html ) - mix under! (also, when raw perlite medium term cheaper will not want or....)

Happy (substrate) mixing,
Bernhard.