Amorphophallus-Forum.de

On the instructions of the culture's fails me already in the second set... Still a pretty interesting link.



PS: I've tried grad again, my wife to inspire... but a breakthrough from the bedroom of the "kids room" in the attic is in it somehow nich.

Moin HerrR,

' times just geguttenbergt...

"Wild populations suffer from an increasing"
pressure on their natural habitat, but botanic gardens can play in important role in the ex-situ
"conservation of the species."

translated the BabelFish ( http://de.babelfish.yahoo.com/ ) as:

"wild populations suffer from an increase in pressure on their natural habitat, but botanical gardens can play an important role in the ex-situ conservation of the species."

Aunt google ( http://translate.google.de/?hl=de ) can also a bit German:

"wild populations suffer always more"
In their natural habitat, but botanical gardens ex-situ play an important role in the pressure
"Conservation of the species."

Exciting, it is probably in the chapter of "Cultivation"...

Happy guttenberging
Bernhard.

is available here:
www.botgart.uni-Bonn.de/o_samm/Titan/docs/ku_amorpho.zip

Titanophile,

can anyone tell me whether I have set the following text already once somewhere???
(I've written him in Sept 2007 and found just in a subfolder.) )

Please diligently writes corrections... and of course your own experiences.

Whether the links are all still valid, need to examine the same again...

Preface:
There are many instructions for care, and that the BOT Garden in Bonn sure the
is, that tried to approach the optimal conditions, in particular
the temperature.
Also for the optimum Earth there are some recipes; the Bonn Earth
works under their conditions well, is in my opinion but for
the most care conditions not permeable enough; the plants are
then maybe sometimes too long too wet. Therefore I am also my Earth mix
(Recipe and link below).


Origin:
Sumatra, so very close to the equator, which however does not mean that the plant is a
needs strict 12-hour day (exposure), but it comes with the
German day lengths also cope....


Location:
In the land of Woods and clearings; that is, there is no
Schattenpflanze and needs for a few hours surely Sun.
In the House, she can safely stand at the Südfenster, without it too much light
Gets. Out there should they part shade are secure (so far)
(Daytime temperatures that allow...)


Temperature:
Optimally safe tropical climate, i.e. like on the Bonn page
(http://botgart.uni-bonn.de/o_samm/amor96.html )
http://botgart.uni-bonn.de/o_samm/amor.html ,
( http://botgart.uni-bonn.de/o_down/ku_amorpho.zip) described, 24-34 ° C.
But living room temperature is sufficient surely.
It would certainly important that the pot on a cold Fennsterbank
because the temperature in the root zone is very important and one
cold window sill easily falls under room temperature.
Amorphophallusverrückte make their plants therefore also stimulated times on one
Heating pad (terrarium needs or BioGreen heating pad).
If a radiator is under the window sill, the considerations are also
rather fragile.


Substrate/Earth:
I take here:
per 1/3
-P unit Earth (60% zersetzter little white peat, 40% clay; 1.5 g Volldünger/litre)
(www.einheitserde.de/produkte/einheitserde.html )
-Perlite ( http://www.perlite.de/industrie/Perlite_im_Gartenbau.html )
-Charcoal 2-4 mm ( www.holzkohle.de/default.htm )

Substrate-links to:
http://www.Malesiana.com/HTML/aroids_pg10.htm
http://www.Amorphophallus-Forum.de/viewtopic.php?t=123
http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern/viewtopic.php?t=1561

There are similar soils such as unit Earth from COMPO, or Floragard, where
There eachtet should be, how much is the proportion of clay.


Casting:
Leave never quite dry.
More wet as wet,
Although by the well-drained substrate a shedding is almost not possible,.
If to ensure, that never longer much water in the tray
stands.
The Earth dries up quickly on the other hand through the loose substrate, so
that you must pour course regularly.


Fertilizing:
The Bonn experts manure Wuxal 1 x per week with 0.3% super
(N + P + K = 8 + 8 + 6), in the winter every 3 weeks.
For home use, it is important that is fertilized at all. It is safe
each Grünpflanze fertilizer, also the cheap Pulle from the grocery store
suitable.
I myself am usually Flory 3 (15 + 10 + 15) or Hakophos special ()
16 + 8 + 22 + 3) or just in summer Flory 1 (20 + 5 + 10 + 2).
ICh dung tickets at each casting with 0.07% (0, 7 g / L Gießwasser) or, if I
the forget accordingly even with 0.2%.
The Bonn still indicate that set the fertilizing course
will, as soon as the tide begins to turn yellow (see also rest period).
Food is the new paper started again, once almost entirely
is unfolded.

Fertilizer-links:
http://www.euflor.de/ under professional users/Flory nutrient salts
http://www.COMPO-ProFi.de/Produkte/3232.php


Rest period:
The Titan Arum forms only a hand under the as Macroperipatus
Corm is growing.
Young plants often make 3-4 leaves one by one, with the subsequent sheets
are often 2 x as large as the previous.
After approximately 1 to 2 years the first rest period occurs, i.e. the sheet yellow
and it drives a new leaf bud immediately.
During the rest period, the plant naturally needs no water, since no
More for water transport and for evaporation there is. Also die
the old roots usually off.
The substrate may but not completely dry out, since the bulb in the
Extreme then begins to dry out and a new sprout is delayed.
The substrate is so damp ideally slightly moist held.

After one or two months is ending the rest and it drives a new
Leaf bud. At the same time grow on the top rings to the tuber
new roots.
As long as the hand is not unfolded, the plant consumes still hardly
Water, so that only little must be poured. If the leaf
will be back to normal cast and fertilized.

On grounds of tropical origin, the Titan Arum knows no course
Seasons. Hence, the rest period can start at any time. Controlled
is that probably endogenous by leaf age, leaf or root size
or the relationship between leaf and tuber. For me this year are about
received 2 / 3 of the tubers in July/August in peace and start again
to exorcise.

Pests:
In addition to the nematodes so urgently warn against which the Bonn, I noticed,.
that A. titanum quite sensitive to aphids; the places where the lice
suck are quickly yellow and the hand can also die in small plants.
Combat can be the aphids, like other sucking pests with imidacloprid.
This systemic agent is for example Lizethanstäbchen or Provado 5WG, where the latter granules
has the best price / performance ratio.
Other pests are not noticed yet.

So, I guess that's the most important thing...

Happy growing, Bernhard.

So me I comes the text now not known before and with Google could find him spontaneously also anywhere else.

I had to think about just something, what you wanted to tell me with translations, but then I came on it. I had no language comprehension issues, but Bezog me on the second sentence under cultivation (the culture Guide) "it requires a conservatory with a roof height of at least 5 meters..."

In the case of A. titanum it excites me somehow nich, to entertain a plant and maintain, when I know from the outset that it is in the long run's eh will not work because of space problems,... the effort in the procurement and maintenance are simple me too high.

HerrR,

now I understand it! You live in a 5 m high greenhouse – that's it!

Happy growing, Bernhard.
P.S.: thanks for Googling - that I have come not now at the moment when I asked me that,

well i have unpotted one titanum..and i didn't kill it..yes!!
when i unpotted it..massive roots were still viable.im guessing this is as with my other amorphs..
even though the corm is at end of vegetative stage..the roots are still going..the titanum roots
are now shrivelling up.. corm is nice and firm.. and signs of roots spots all over the new formed corm
sigh..guess im learning.. lol
i have an online friend grew a HUGE titanum..got over 11 feet (330 cm) tall..he kept it warm, lighted..
but upon checking it..found in place of the nice sized corm he planted last summer 2013.. a small
5 inch (14 cm) corm.. hes very discouraged..
the vegetative growth showed no sign of distress..problems..
??? any thoughts?? ideas???
im looking forward to unpotting my 3 other large titanums.. no sign yet of going into dormancy
1 is almost 10 feet (300 cm) tall, 1 is 7 feet tall (210 cm) and the other is 4 feet tall (120 cm)
i hope i have done ok growing them..