Amorphophallus-Forum.de

Congratulations, Luke!
It seems to be almost all over the mountain!!!

Also just have a few cuttings to hopefully grow.
Harvest so far:
Laoticus goes really excellent, prainii did not want to the way I want it, bolikhamxayensis has only formed extremely small lumps, does not yet know if they survive...

Dear Greüße
Michael

Meanwhile, the leaf-cutting of the titanum has formed the first approx. 10 cm high leaf

Congratulate!

2×Bulbifer, 1×Muelleri bent off the storm and then used as a cuttings. Is in all 3 cases only about half a feather leaf, in which in the lower part the leaf was removed to the middle rib and the dried end was removed. Simply put everything in potting potting. The oldest cutting, a Bulbifer, is now at least 4 weeks old and still fresh green like the rest.

Another attempt with a broken piece of an atroviridis (a piece with 2 feather leaves, which were shortened to half) unfortunately failed. The leaf was probably already too old (8 months) and began to turn yellow after 14 days.

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Hello dung beetles,

then keep us up to date.... according to the Liate, which circulates on facebook, all three species should be reproducible via leaf cuttings....

Happy propagation, Bernhard.

That's what I do. As I said, there is no chance at Atroviridis anymore. Blatt was obviously already too old.

I knew that all 3 species are on the list. That's why I tried it first. Even if this is not absolutely necessary for bulbifer and muelleri for propagation. But trying it out for yourself is tempting and if you don't really need it to multiply, a failure is also easier to cope with. Especially if the cuttings are produced anyway.

The bulbifers sit firmly in the earth. At some point, on the middle rib of the leaf above the earth, such knobs appeared similar to the beginning of bulbilla formation in the branches. In the first leaf, callus formation was also visible directly on the surface. I have covered a little bit in the meantime.

With the Muelleri cuttings, this looks worse. Although it still shows no tendency to wilt, but really firm, like the other two cuttings, he did not sit at the last check. Maybe it was already too old.

Since the Muelleri cuttings rolled up the leaf and the leaf has discolored further into yellowish, I took a look. The cuttings could be moved up and down about half a centimeter, but not simply pulled out. When I had it outside, I knew why it looked like this. At the interface, a small tuber was formed but no roots.

This is what the cuttings currently look like, above the two Bulbifer, below Muelleri:

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Great, as small as they are, a slightly damp storage after the leaf pieces have dried up, is best.

Happy propagating, Bernhard.

They have long since been repotted. But this time separately.

One of the 2 Bulbifer cuttings:

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Hello Mistkäfer,

It's probably not really sharp anymore.... sorry, that's an inside joke, because a colleague once commented on an unsheepish slide of his grandmother with similar words ;-)

.... But it's nice that it's growing!

Happy growing, Bernhard.

The second bulbifer cutting is also coming. All that's missing is the Muelleri cutting.

Hello dung beetles,

Your experience with bulbifer and muelleri cuttings has encouraged me to try this method in my current plight.

But I'm not sure if my experience here on the forum is correctly mapped...
Especially since it is a cutting from an entire leaf,
which I had to save quickly after my vacation.

My Titan seedling had started to sprout again before my absence and was just unfolding its new leaf in its second year.
Unfortunately, when I returned, I found that the leaf was hanging limply and the small tuber was completely rotten.
After placing the severed leaf with stem in water, it visibly recovered. I protected it from water loss by placing it in a large transparent plastic box. I didn't have much hope. But after three weeks it formed a visible callus tissue at the cut, which became larger and larger.

After that, even roots have formed in the water without the addition of root boosters & Co.

My next step was to transfer the cutting from the water to a substrate of pure and well-moistened peat moss.

After this measure, the leaf unfortunately looks much less well supplied and hangs down very limply.
However, my subsequent control showed a clearly visible growth of fine root hairs on the healthy white roots in the root area.
Presumably, however, there are still too few roots to supply the leaf with sufficient water.

Regards
Roy

Hi Roy,

these are very interesting observations!
Did you document this with pictures?

Happy growing, Bernhard.

This has been reported several times on Facebook, partly to save plants, partly to obtain several plants from a seedling with several leaves. There was even someone who cut the leaf and stem in half. One half retained most of the tuber, the other half almost no tuber, only roots. Unfortunately, a few groups are now purely private.

Hello Bernhard,

I didn't document the drama.
But when the leaf still looked good after four weeks in the water under a bag and the cut became thicker and thicker, I improved and documented the experimental setup.

Here are the photos of it:

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From my point of view, the cutting is not out of the woods yet.
The next few days I would like to try foliar fertilization.
But I'm still a bit hesitant about it, because I don't want to stress the withered leaf at all.
Or what do you think?

At the weekend I will look at the roots again and take pictures of them.
I had forgotten that during my last check.

Regards
Roy

Hi Roy,

this looks very good and I think that a tuber will also form at the base of the cutting from the "callus".
I wouldn't pot the cutting to look at the roots either, just keep it slightly moist.
Foliar fertilization won't hurt in my opinion (unless the concentration was too high...).
If the cutting is then nice and bright, it will also assimilate and the roots will grow, as nutrients are needed; maybe I would also ventilate the box a bit, so that some perspiration can take place; To do this, put the lid on so that a small gap remains open.
When enough roots are formed to absorb water, more and more ventilation. You can also see the root development through the transparent pot.

Happy growing, Bernhard.

Hello Bernhard,

I left the cutting in the peat moss. That's right - otherwise roots will break off during the action.
Unfortunately, the water absorption is still not very good - the leaf hangs particularly limp today.
Probably it was too warm with 30 °C during the day in the conservatory.

For foliar fertilization, 600 μS should not be too highly concentrated - or better only 300 μS?
I wanted to fertilize with Canna Start, as it is supposed to be especially suitable for seedlings and rooted cuttings.

I could also put a 20 W heating mat underneath and switch it on at night.

Regards
Roy