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Det

Anfänger

  • »Det« ist der Autor dieses Themas

Beiträge: 14

Wohnort: Ost - Westfalen

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1

Mittwoch, 18. Juli 2007, 22:30

Knollen - wie tief setzt Ihr die??

""Planning your tuber deep."- is available here: <!-m--> < a class href="http://www.snowsexotics.com/growing.htm = "post link" "> http://www.snowsexotics.com/growing.htm < /a > <!-m->

"Da: <!-m--> < a class href="http://www.amorphophallus.info/index.html = "post link" "> http://www.amorphophallus.info/index.html < /a > <!-m-> is:

"For most species, a depth that corresponds to the triple root diameter is sufficient." (underlining by me)
((get some deeper?))

Deeply I put sooo never a tuber - should I be?


How verfahrt so many ways you, your cultured?

I have a (and more) A "just" so almost 20 years. konjac and not so long ago several Typhonium, "usual" Zantedeschias and now newly so nearly 10 seedlings A. bulbifer.

Until last year I had used konjac - tuber times a little lower my largest A. and she came up big as never been with 3 kg (with form) from the Earth. Perhaps that was not deep enough, "just" so almost double tuber height... However I had fertilized for the first time also mineral - always only with organic manure.

Ever more deeply the fault? The tuber is the greater, or?
That has systematically examined times someone / tried?

Am curious what experiences here come to light.

Greeting to the Amorphophallus-and remaining Aaron bar municipality
Detlef

2

Donnerstag, 19. Juli 2007, 08:58

Hi Detlef,.
even without the "huge experience with many kinds of" I think I know ' what: the larger planting depth has static benefits in any case, it is then enough substrate on the old Corm that the plant coped with the temporary cavity by depleting the old Corm without falling over,. The lower temperature, which is driving out delayed is sometimes unfavourable. And in huge lumps of 20-30 cm DM will be probably no one on the idea, 60-90 cm deep to plant them. Since he would have to take already a Regenfaß as a pot, lol. The smaller the tuber more you can comply even with.
It has proven itself in my larger tubers, or it has enough to cover up the tubers with substrate in the amount of DM. the Corm, planting depth was DM so approx. 1.5 x.
Greeting
Hermann

3

Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2007, 15:08

Agree with arumgrande, isnbesondere the point stability. and would like to add the following thoughts:

Depending on the water retaining capacity of the substrate, the location (exposure to sunlight, the top layer, and of the pot and thus warming/evaporation rate) is just a mediocrity. I think that the layer not to fast should dry out ÃœBER of the Corm, so as to endanger the is forming roots by drying out.
By deeper plants it can be done in loose substrate. But since a sufficient depth is reached from 10-20 cm depending on the substrate safely.
You must think of the bulbous shape, for example longituberosus, pygmaeus, I plant so high it is just because the elongated tuber despite Palm pot otherwise winds on the ground (and maybe even there cancels).

I've had bad experiences with high potted plants in perlit-rich substrate, there you would have to implement larger vessels with low plants.
This year I was "normal" large containers with structure stable container for plant Earth and have planted relaitv high.
Because of bad weather, even the thin layers of the tubers dry hardly from, which is why the smaller plants now rain-protected inside are.

Open field may apply other laws: I have the information that someone plants his A. konjac 70 (!) cm deep and they resist the Frost this from another forum. They grow each year and are no longer ausgegeraben. Drive up the effort for the sheet so far by the Earth must be enormous. Whether small Cormels which I know do not really create. I sit a few middle and create just so...
Gruß Thorsten

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