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1

Mittwoch, 13. Juni 2007, 19:57

A. stuhlmannii

Hello

have last week one of the small tubers of A. stuhlmannii excavated and wanted to just make a photo of the beautiful bulb. So tuber out built... and then fell to this stupid thing on the Balkontisch and camera and on the tuber, which is of course equally hard pitched on the stone floor and jumped. : shock:

The day before yesterday, I did look times. the tuber half is way gefault now....:(

Then, I am running right to the pharmacy to buy Chinosol – that doesn't exist in our course. "Mueß 'ma only order in Germany". Na at least the charcoal has got through already up to ã-: /.

Now, I firmly hope that the tuber is through... Wish me luck!

LG,
Martina (who is grad insanely angry about themselves): ^ ^:

2

Donnerstag, 14. Juni 2007, 08:36

Sch..........

Sch....................................................................ade!

Sorry if the comment; the line ends so slightly unhappy with "Ade"....

Hopefully she fault you not quite gone.

Press the thumb...

Grüpße,
Bernhard.

3

Samstag, 16. Juni 2007, 20:57

Thanks, Bernhard, for's thumb press.

Hopefully, the "ADE" is not final adoption: | At the moment's looks unfortunately not so good, maybe I should keep completely dry it?

LG,
Martina

4

Mittwoch, 20. Juni 2007, 00:37

NOTRAT

I would just pot the tuber. Keep dry, etc. the tuber unnecessary distress. If the bulb no longer drifts out even after transplanting, then it was this ever...

Really too bad to these species as well as not to whom!

5

Mittwoch, 20. Juni 2007, 15:50

Thank you for the advice, I have a eingetopft they actually again yesterday. Slightly damp, it is further go dry was also not good... Give ' hope but not yet on. take years to grow, but they are away faster than you can watch:(

Originally posted

Really too bad to these species as well as not to whom!

From me, she will be to get now unfortunately not so soon. But I do prefer plans – this brings only misfortune: /.

LG,
Martina

6

Donnerstag, 12. Juli 2007, 14:25

The mentioned tuber has now landed in the plant world, say organic waste. But the great has formed a beautiful tuber and 3 daughter tuber. Am so again a bit reconciled...

:D

LG,
Martina

7

Donnerstag, 12. Juli 2007, 18:54

Hello Martina,.

gratifying that the stock that is backed up!

Have you dug about that you can already say that other plant has made three primary Cormels??

MfG,
Bernhard.

8

Donnerstag, 12. Juli 2007, 23:21

«Originally posted by» "Mr.. Titanum".»


Have you dug about that you can already say that other plant has made three primary Cormels??

MfG,
Bernhard.


: ops: get caught. Do I unfortunately constantly - is an inner compulsion =). Other plant / tuber is but sleep as usual went in June and because buddel I of course all out... Yes sometimes you want to see a success:D

LG,
Martina

P.S. There are no photos unfortunately - otherwise the tubers sub-humans apparatus jumps to stuhlmannii one;-)

9

Freitag, 13. Juli 2007, 00:04

Brutknolle

Hello

I'm very interested in Stuhlmannii. Have very much to the swap. Please report if you are interested.

10

Samstag, 8. September 2007, 14:23

Hello of its Amorpho professionals

the winter is approaching and just in time to the first colder days my drive off stuhlmanniis now. Unfortunately, they grow right from the outset all from autumn in the summer and therefore never properly put to much. An additional light would here help and who has experience? The way Yes originates from the tropical rainforest and I would not exaggerate also there with the light, but they grow a bit faster might already... :D Perhaps you could fertilize then something more with additional lights / company?

The temperature at the topped would also rel. cool and dry, so during the day on average 16 (up to 18) ⠰ C up to 10°C minimum.

What conditions would recommend for her?!




LG and thanks already times in advance,.
Martina

Philipp

Fortgeschrittener

Beiträge: 238

Wohnort: Oberbayern

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11

Sonntag, 9. September 2007, 16:46

Hi,.

I can recommend you, as additional lighting of sodium lamps, which is the only really meaningful plant lights. Fluorescent tubes go also, but only for very small plugs, because one would need tons of tubes enough to illuminate a larger area.

My A. hewittii their weight about has tripled last winter under a voltage sodium lamps, these lamps are also for Amorphophallus in order. The advantage is that you can select (the spectrum ranges from 50 to 600 watts) between many strengths and also relatively cheap comes out.
However, you should try to get a lamp with a high blue proportion. The usual Lampem with the orange light that cause greatly stretch the petioles of the Amorphos.

MfG Philipp

12

Sonntag, 9. September 2007, 17:52

Hi Philip,.

can you provide information about the type of lamp or the colour?

MfG,
Bernhard.

Philipp

Fortgeschrittener

Beiträge: 238

Wohnort: Oberbayern

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13

Montag, 10. September 2007, 18:32

Unfortunately, I could find not too much to the special light spectra. But this is not so important, because sodium vapour lamps are offered almost exclusively from hemp growers, and that differentiate only two types of light sources: the ordinary yellow for the flowering and the blue corrected (almost daylight) for the period of growth. Horticulture only the yellow are used, for example so that Fuchsia blossom earlier. As a hobby gardener and Amorpo collector, you should buy but always the blue, so that the plants remain nicely compact and stating not to "spargeln".

Most of the time the 400 Watt spotlights or kits are the cheapest because the demand is greatest in these lamps. Them enough then an approx. 1.5 m², up to 100 plants in different sizes with me. So I put three-year healthy much of my plant collection through the winter.

The spotlights are browse offered frequently on eBay, simply times.

MfG Philipp

14

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 08:49

Kunstlicht

Hi Philip,.

Thanks for the detailed reply, a few questions I have yet still:;-)

I had the effect of asparagus under the fluorescent lamp. For the terrarium I chose sodium lamps of Philips in the spring for 2 x 50 W sdw-t. Do you perhaps if you have the appropriate spectrum? If I compare the performance with your but, the plant larger probably just just for 1-2 enough...

Got your hewittii only NDL light or even daylight?

They should develop the leaves then already under additional light, or switches to it until then, when daylight comes in from out there not more enough?

Has if you ever had negative experience with artificial light? Can you actually "overexposure", or is it not possible with conventional lamps?

LG,
Martina

15

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 09:00

Have now changed the title and made a General A. stuhlmannii-tread out of it...

LG,
Martina

16

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 09:43

Re: Kunstlicht

«Originally posted by» "Martina"»




Has if you ever had negative experience with artificial light? Can you actually "overexposure", or is it not possible with conventional lamps?

LG,
Martina


Hello Martina,.

for two weeks, a part of my Amosammlung is under 400W
There is no sodium lamps, problems with the intensity of the light
but I have to watch that enough was the leaves because of the heat to the lamp have. 30-40 cm are the minimum.
The light and the heat of the lamp have an impact very positively on
You can watch nearly the growth of plants, in some pots as they dent out by root growth and the Earth is pushed to the top.

Greeting René

17

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 14:06

«Originally posted by» "Philipp"»

Most of the time the 400 Watt spotlights or kits are the cheapest because the demand is greatest in these lamps. Them enough then an approx. 1.5 m², up to 100 plants in different sizes with me. So I put three-year healthy much of my plant collection through the winter.

The spotlights are browse offered frequently on eBay, simply times.

MfG Philipp

Hi Philip,.

can you hire just write what budget is that moving?

And how it looks with the daily exposure time - 12- or 16-hour day?

MfG,
Bernhard.

18

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 20:22

Hi René,.

that sounds really very good. In particular, the relationship of light tuber growth...

Nevertheless, I have the questions:
NDL light for all, or only the particular quest (as e.g. consimilis)? What about the tropical forest types?
* They come from alone with NDL, or there's also daylight?
* Makes it for what the plant if she now still out there pushing and then suddenly comes into the warm room under NDL light?

The NDL you have exactly? Now, have found Phillips sdw-t would have a small blue component. Although it is advertised in many places as ideal plant lamp. Whether the two 50W-NDLs ever be enough?

LG,
Martina

Philipp

Fortgeschrittener

Beiträge: 238

Wohnort: Oberbayern

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19

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 20:40

@ Martina: I can only agree with René, you should watch out for Ãœberhitzung. Too much light there is no, only to much heat;-)
I've rummaged times quickly on eBay, your two SDW-T should be blue-corrected and therefore very well suited. But you can see that very easily with the naked eye, because the normal yellow have a very distinctive, yellow orange light, while the blue-corrected have a white, natural looking light. But just you can take the yellow, from the growth produced that is likely to make no difference. You need to schedule simply only a marked difference in the length of Blattstieles...
My hewittii got NDL light and a little scattered light from the window, switching to direct sunlight from the roof Windows easily worked then in the spring.
I would expose the Amorphos in any case already now artificially since the expulsion is the most sensitive phase of Yes. In addition, grow then from the outset in the direction of the lamp and can optimally exploit so the light.

@ Bernhard: used complete kits or valves cost about 50 to 100?, eBay I consider as the best source.
I think time with 12 hours you can do much wrong exposure time. If the space is scarce and the plants lack, I don't begrudge them up to 18 hours (but never more, which can harm also).
We should pay attention also to the age of the light bulb as the pears with time become weaker, and must be changed from time to.

MfG Philipp

20

Dienstag, 11. September 2007, 23:54

Thank you all for the detailed info!

Think I will put the Minis in any case under the NLD and the consimilis, who was outside in the summer and still not thinking to collect. However I am afraid now before the spider mites problem...

I'm still undecided in the large stuhlmannii. So what's you could get a larger Corm with more light and fertilizer which then makes more no primary Cormels.
Does anyone of you know the phenomenon? What would you choose you - flower or babies?

LG,
Martina

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