Amorphophallus-Forum.de

Hi Michael,.

This occurs; again and again, we read that the tubers make what they want....
Important is be sure that you she damp moving, so not lazy only slight beginneth to.

Happy growing, Bernhard.

Hi Michael,.

According to the table of snowexotics.com (which is no longer online):
yuloensis offsets: foliar rich soil store dry China [Yunnan] leaf hight: 60 cm tuber diameter: 10 cm

That would favour hire out to topfen and dry to store the bulb, but I can not tell you whether that's better than waiting a late bud.

Perhaps someone has a stronger Council.

Happy growing/stroring, Bernhard.

Hello

I have put to this winter many new species me where are also some very long not have stirred. The tubers look still well but they do nothing. For the majority of my nachzügler start pretty slowly even shoots to make.
I am also a newbie without a plan, but I can tell you, well there goes my tubers, which I will try it certainly still a bit with moist substrate before I send them back into the hibernation.
In the past 3 days, bie have it again 2 species managed from its calm to wake me up.

Regards Theresa

I am also only the second year an amorphomaniac.eh only 74 species!
but no one has to tell me yet what's going on in the knolle, what the timer for a new clearance is!
think you nix, let them come. and when in the winter is, no matter.
all good helmut from salzburg

Amorphophile,

as I said, the opinion is expressed generally, that the tubers make what they want.
That is internally of course "Pflanzenhormen" controlled, combined will depend on many factors (previous growing season, size of the bulb temperature during storage etc.pp).

In the tranquillity and rest refraction of our tubers, presumably primarily Abscisinsäure ("Schlafhormon", suspension of foliation) are Gibberillinsäure ("to alarm", quiet Crusher), and ethylene ("maturing hormone") have influence. Accurate investigations, which may exist, are but not known to me.

I myself have once Amorphophallus konjac and Typhonium venosum Cormels ppm treated Gibberilinsäure with 500, but there was no difference to the untreated control.

In the aroid L, there was the enthusiastic report that Dracunculus vulgaris and various Amorphophallusarten had been brought by ethylene to the synchronous emergence last year. To do this, the tubers with ripening bananas, which emit ethylene, were placed in a plastic bag.
The author has not reviewed this year that, with the result that he this year has still tubers that are not driven out. Also he has not written in the previous year, whether he has made a control (without ethylene).

I would be so careful with the indication and in-house tests. This was a single observation and "Physiological status" of various tubers is certainly so different that I may believe not without multiple repetition, that the method for all tubers and types of work. I would be definitely not Einzeknollen of a way for such an experiment on's game.
But it may well be something.
When I think about a few tubers with bananas or apples in a bag come next spring.

Who wants to read the original messages, you can do that here:
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Enter in the search box "ethylene" or look here:
"<!-m--> < a class href="http://www.hort.net/lists/highlight.pl?bits=3 & search = ethylene & URL=aroid-l/oct08/msg00058.html#marker = "post link" "> http://www.hort.net/lists/highlight.pl? ... tml # marker < /a > <!-m->
"<!-m--> < a class href="http://www.hort.net/lists/highlight.pl?bits=3 & search = ethylene & URL=aroid-l/aug10/msg00007.html#marker = "post link" "> http://www.hort.net/lists/highlight.pl? ... tml # marker < /a > <!-m->

Happy reading, Bernhard.

Hello together,

This was really not a good year! From my about 35 species have vllt. 1 / 3 cast out and since then grow in the greenhouse of my grandfather. If I think that last year around Easter rum, all my Amorphis, leaves were blessed. Well, in any case the tubers look still healthy and I hope that the growing season will be 2011 significantly better.

Hi Michael,.

I was the problem that I do not quite deep plant tubers and the Earth up so quickly dries out. Since nothing can germinate, I think. Last year, I had some difficulties with my new additions. At first I thought they drive out, then they 'stopped' and it seemed this spring when they (very, very slow) would start again. (A stinkin' tuber made me somewhat more cautious with the casting.)

2 of 3, I brought in the pot to the drive (which have now been roots), I have packed the third before a few days with a small bunch of wet earth in cling film and already the tip begins to grow. When the bulb has made then a few roots, I war out there back in the pot (I hope ). I found the idea years ago on a Palm page on the Internet - so that it does not dry out seeds and it has nicely warm. Works splendidly.

How will you get your substrate evenly and permanently damp? Simply plant the Corm deeper, or I've simply no sense: shock:?

Dear greeting

Eva

Hello eva.
the tubers should be rather deeper after my experience.
the first roots come so quite above all around the new feed!
shrinks the old healthfully at advancing growth and makes space for the new.
is the thing with the moisture holding perhaps the substrate?
'm trying times with ED 63 (eiheitserde) EV. 25% mix in grunderde.
LG. Edmund

Hello

Yes, this can happen. If the bulb fail a growing season can be it comes often to smaller "bearing damage" by drying out, etc., because it is not uncommon that times the growing tip dies and the tuber must be somewhere else cast out. Happened also already a few times to me, especially in the smaller specimens and primary Cormels.

VG Philipp