Erde, die Qual der Qual der Wahl

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Mittwoch, 24. August 2011, 10:52

Hello

because I had to accept drug in terms of substrate again and again since 2005, I have made me lately much thought about the appropriate substrate.

I had tried many substrates and mixtures; from the cheap supermarket Earth, up to expensive brands of Earth from the hardware store.

Both the cheap and expensive Earth failed clearly me, substrates, which I have mixed it. After some time, so compressed that I lost many plants all substrates.

Now I have read in many forums and me informed and have remained once again hang in forums for hemp gardener :icon_irre3:

There, again and again 1 company was highly praised with their range. The company is canna from the Netherlands. In the first place, they will produzuieren manure, aggregates and soils for cannabis. The Mono nutrients of this company are indeed very notable. There you get each nutrient separately in handy litre! I looked at the substrate me on their homepage and me 2 for the test concerned.

On the one hand it is to:

Canna Bioterra plus

Quoted

Description
It is managed CANNA research to develop an organically certified soil substrate that corresponds to the international standard for organic cultivation methods.
Bio Terra plus consists of 100% natural substances and may thus be employed for the organic farming. Bio Terra plus is composed of high-quality peat types, such as the nutrient-rich and airy white peat.

The airy structure of white torfes, the substrate is characterized also by the natural mould repelling effect of the mixed among pieces of bark. Bio Terra plus with organically certified ingredients, such as bone meal, bat guano and various, from natural sources trace elements, is in gedüngt.

The charm of our bio Terra plus contains only certified organic ingredients:

Peat
The used peat corresponds to the strictest quality standards and be found only in a few places of the world. The long fiber structure results in that peat is lighter and more airy.

Bark
Bio Terra plus contains a special, high-quality bark. This rind interferes with the growth of harmful mold cultures. Bark lower quality, to find often in cheaper substrates on the market as it is, is often more harmful pathogens to the carrier.

COCO
Bio Terra plus contains COCO, also of such high quality as our high-quality CANNA COCO product. Due to our special sterilization method, the unique, spongy structure of our COCO remains unaffected. Is the COCO in the range of most of our competitors sterilized by steam under high pressure? a method that destroys the micro-structure of the substrate.

The composition of the materials, which occurs when bio Terra plus to use, results in a surprisingly light potting soil which preserves their airy loose structure. This unique product sets completely new standards in the market for potting soil.

BIO TERRA PLUS is a pre gedüngte potting soil.
If not enough nutrients on the nutrient solution are fed, the plants absorb needed nutrients with an automatic regulatory effect directly from the substrate? virtually on demand.

If the plants get all the necessary nutrients from nutrient, the pre gedüngten nutrient elements remain longer in the substrate.

This self regulatory effect is also dependent on geographical and climate-related factors: in England, the soil as in Spain, where a warmer climate prevails in other (probably with a slower release) response.

This amazing system of self-regulation can be found only on our soil.

Because of self-regulatory effect of the substrate and the unique features of our certified, organic fertilizer, growers now have the opportunity to cultivate their plants in natural and simple way.

We must really make an effort and do much wrong to experience a poor harvest with our BIO CANNA products.

Because of the unique properties of bio Terra plus need

Grower to worry more about Ph-and EC-values to make nutrient - the potting soil do everything alone.
and

Canna Terra Professional plus

Quoted

Experience the exotic canna Terra Professional plus. This special formula originated from the desire to create the purest ground mixture of the world, it was developed specifically for indoor situations.

The quality of the raw materials, its fine structure and its purity are valued by countless professional breeders.

Since this earth consists of high-quality raw materials which the coarse fibre structure is maintained which in turn ensures a loose texture.

This earth receives no perlite but for tree bark of the French marine FIR, which occurred no mould growth.

The two substrates is almost at all no distinction between the appearance and texture. Due to the different white peat types, both Subtrate are wonderfully relaxed Luftig. If you have the substrate in the hand, it feel in as if you had soft Moss in his hand.

If one wonders what is the difference between the two substrates.

The Bioterra substrate is set to 100% with organic fertilizers. There no mineral fertilizer used
Terra Professional Plus is offset with normal, mineral fertilizers.

Advantage of both Subtrate:

Since these substrates for cannabis is intended, she will have an ideal pH value for plants and is moderate to gedüngt.
Yes, the cannabis gardeners are very finicky : icon_biggrin:

I am very convinced now of two Subtraten. Both substrates ähnel very much the typical unit earths. I have the whole year in use both substrates and in any pot, I've seen until now even mold which was often the case in the DIY Earth.

This images:

The two bags

Canna bio Terra plus

Canna Terra Professional plus

I shuffle these substrates with perlite and Holzkohlegriesss and then that might be the ideal substrate for our favorites.

You are indeed not priced cheap, but for this you get first-class Earth! The Bioterra Earth is certified for the organic farming! and has also a RHP certification (regulation trade foie Earth)

Terra Professional plus also a RHP certification.

Both Earth cost in the trade between 15-17 € per 50 liter bag.

This money in any case is worth to me personally, because through normal potting soil, the is at the pour nicely compacted, have already capable of flowering tubers lost because they are simply rotten with perlite admixture! :icon_explode:

In the end can himself decide what they want to.

I will remain on this earth and hire in following experiments with species that need a well ventilated and drainage-rich soil, attempts to find the best mix.

I report if I have results.

MfG
Stephan

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Mr. Titanum

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Mittwoch, 24. August 2011, 14:05

Bezugsquelle Holzkohlengries

Moin Stephan,

Nice that you have had good experiences with the substrate.
Some sound is missing me personally and the price is erschrecckend high.
But the point of view, I am also somewhat spoiled because I can get very cheap from a friendly gardener the good old unit compost as the basis for my substrates.
You could comment on the presentation/description of the substrates. in detail, but zussammenfassend I would so appreciate it up, that one with Eineitserde (little decomposed white peat + sound + chemical fertilizers) under contract an equivalent substrate cheaper receives good bark compost and green manure ("self-regulatory" long-term effects). But I will not despite the Canna substrate you.... :icon_wink2:

....es looks out quite alright, first of all, what is the structure...

Your source for coal meal would be very interested.
What grain size has the meal? How many euros are he?
Unfortunately my supply comes to an end and to proFagus after Bodenfelde ( http://www.profagus.de/index.php?option=…id=23 & Itemid = 85 ) I'll be back so quickly.

Happy growing, Bernhard.

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Shreck

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Mittwoch, 24. August 2011, 17:47

Hi Bernard,.

Since unit earth not to get is here, I will use this earth.

Wilbert Hetterscheid distinguishes all Amorphophallus species in 2 groups.

The group needed a breezy, drainage-rich and well gedüngtes substrate without clay/tone.In this group, all types, coming from Sumatra and Borneo belong for example. Including A.titanum and A. gigas.

The other group required a heavy, loamy soil. This includes all species with elongated tubers, as well as species from Thailand and Africa.
For these species, in addition I shuffle sound powder into the substrate and give them less perlite and coal meal. You get this sound powder on ebay for 1 euro the kilo.

You can find here the exact affiliation of groups:

Amorphophallus Caresheet by W. Hetterscheid

I refer the coal meal of Götz plant accessories

I use 3-5 mm the grain.

MfG
Stephan

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Mr. Titanum

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 13:40

Hi Stephan,.

It is true that one can without relations to a nursery or access to a gardening needs hardly good unit compost of a certified Herstellerss. There were formerly also on larger Raiffeisen branches who had need for gardening in the range.

Thank you for the coal source; can you just write what volume 1 or 5 kg of your wood charcoal grießes have?

Happy potting, Bernhard.

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Shreck

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 13:48

It is a pity that you need now to purchase high good Earth relations.
I have here a Raiffeisen market away from :icon_sad:

And to Einheitserde.de I had immediately 2 Earth types that I would use, but since I can't buy it, we're no different.
But my cannabis Earth is also super: icon_biggrin: Although expensive, but I can it sustain.

Have only just in 3 A.hirsutus seedlings planted, with the Earth mixture, the Malesiana is recommended. At the pour I have noted the mixed substrate is as beautifully rich in drainage. It will be determined well the small is :icon_rolleyesnew:

The meal I bought years ago. I have a new Pack and a still zuhe bag. Since the weight not is it unfortunately. I guess times that there are 1 KG bags.

MfG
Stephan

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Mr. Titanum

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 13:58

Quoted from "Shreck"

....I have a new Pack and a still zuhe bag. Since the weight not is it unfortunately. I guess times that there are 1 KG bags.
MfG Stephan

Hi Stephan,.
You have to weigh... then you know what weighs it :icon_winkgrin:

But seriously; I wanted eigendliche more likely to know is how much liter 1 kg to assess how far you get with a kg.

Happy weighing, Bernhard.

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Shreck

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 14:05

The zuhe sack is 1KG.
He has the approximate dimensions of 30 x 23 x 8 cm (Lxwxh)

MfG
Stephan

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Mr. Titanum

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 14:15

OK, then approx. 5.5 litre that would... Then I have a conception of a kg of coal meal
Thank you and
Happy mixing, Bernhard.

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Shreck

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 14:17

: icon_biggrin:

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BlumenInder

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 18:24

Quoted from "Shreck"

: icon_biggrin:

Always this spammer: icon_biggrin:

Sounds like what you all very interesting, you since so all told. I got so far always with a substrate mixture of bark compost, perlite and tried Hygromull. This substrate is currently in the testing phase with me. Bark compost is relatively coarse and very Strukturstabil, so thus optimally is derived from the water and estate consequently a good air budget.

However, it is necessary to say that water is saved only to a limited extent. Here, the Hygromull occurs then which absorbs water and nutrients as aggregate and stores these soil solution in the cells. Thus, I need to use no peat. Also, I set up still perlite to promote the stability of the structure and also in the long term maintain.

The fertilization I take Hakaphos then green, so that the plants are optimally supplied by N because the high C/n ratio in the bark compost ensures that lot N for the decomposition is consumed by the micro-organisms. Thus, it is not to an N lock during the growth phase. In addition, I am still most consider whether I not yet sound powder works a, which compensates for a buffer nutrient variations in the substrate, protects thus vpr overexertion or low use of fertilizers.
I can because indeed times to tell her what.

Mit grünen Grüßen

Niels

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Shreck

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 19:28

Hello

so with Hygromull I know of me really. I just know that it decomposes with time and will release Sticksoff.
So, it will be at some point no longer in the substrate. What do you do then? Then, yes your nutrient storage is gone.

For Amorphophallus I guess Hakaphos is green not very suitable, as it has a very low proportion of P (20-5-10)

According to W.Hetterscheid, a fertilizer with NPK is 15-30-15 to be preferred because of the increased P - share for the bulbous growth is required. So, all P-based fertilizer for Amorphophallus are suitable. Course N and k should be not just little: icon_biggrin:

I use a 20-20-20 to the fertilization Nährsalz and give it in addition some additional liquid phosphorus fertilizer.

To the sound, I know nothing more accurate to what extent he is suitable as a buffer. I need it in my substrate because it already the Nährstöffe she well buffers.

Jaja the cannabis gardeners take only the best for their Pfänzchen

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BlumenInder

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Donnerstag, 25. August 2011, 22:33

Quoted from "Shreck"

so with Hygromull I know of me really. I just know that it decomposes with time and will release Sticksoff.
So, it will be at some point no longer in the substrate. What do you do then? Then, yes your nutrient storage is gone.

Hygromull is an offenzelliger soil conditioners which absorbs the upcoming water like a sponge. Thus, also dissolved nutrients are stored and also held. Hygromull contains 30% nitrogen, which is also released during the slow decomposition into the soil solution in itself. The decomposition of Hygromull is however marginal, so only about 5% of nitrogen per year are decomposed by microbes. Hygromull remains active, several years as a water and nutrient storage although decreases its effectiveness over time.

However, it is detrimental to Hygromull that it releases formaldehyde for wetting the flow, which is toxic to plants. This is then to keep in mind that the substrate before actual use is collected, which can escape formaldehyde, what has happened after maximum one week. Also, you should studiously avoid body contact and wear a dust mask.
Can see the stuff already, not full without risk!

Quoted from "Shreck"

According to W.Hetterscheid, a fertilizer with NPK is 15-30-15 to be preferred because of the increased P - share for the bulbous growth is required. So, all P-based fertilizer for Amorphophallus are suitable.

Phosphorus has a very bad ground mobility and must be incorporated in the ground. Are two main types in the phosphorus fertilizers. Since there is the water-soluble phosphate fertilizers and saurelöslichen phosphate fertilizers.
Times, I would be interested what kind of phosphorus fertilizer you use. Because the fertile phosphorus can be recorded in the first year only to 15-20% of the plant because it is often long conversion until it is plant available, the high phosphorus content in your manure says a erstmal nothing.Saurelöslichen phosphate fertilizers, are implemented by the soil acidity and so only time plant-available made, thus these fertilizers in our Amorphophallus, where many have no year-long growth phase, no marvels effect would have.

Quoted from "Shreck"

To the sound, I know nothing more accurate to what extent he is suitable as a buffer. I need it in my substrate because it already the Nährstöffe she well buffers.

Clay contains clay minerals which attach gave certain nutrients. There are also indicating that occur in humusreichen substrates and also serve as a nutrient buffer. This floor buffer, have a very large specific surface area and can accommodate such a large amount of nutrients and to give again with deficiencies of the soil solution. Even with a eutrophication this works only just vice versa. The thing is only the that clay minerals and indicating better or worse can different nutrient particles buffer. This buffering depends on the existing charge of the individual nutrients. Here, I must now but make conclusion because I myself must again read into the matter, the nutrient dynamics of the soil is pretty complicated. Enough time for it to deal with this topic have so soon in the study: icon_biggrin2:

Mit grünen Grüßen

Niels

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Mr. Titanum

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Freitag, 26. August 2011, 07:33

Hi of Nils,

since someone intends but learned recently for his final examination for the Landscaper, right? :icon_wink2:

Can you leave what you write so well.... :icon_thumbs1:

What I critically wonder at your mix of likely is the pH or its stability.
Is the bark compost on gekalkt?
Have you measured may be once the pH of your mixture?
In the respect of pH buffering the sound would back in the game...

Happy mixing, Bernhard.

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Erwin

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Freitag, 26. August 2011, 12:26

Substrat

Hello

I use Neudohum potting soil for several years with the best successes. Are in the ground which prevent Fäulnissprozesse and tubers and roots mixed Mycorhizza mushrooms with. Since I'm using the Neudohum no tuber is rotten me. To the try out there to buy small packages. The plants grow to like the fire department. Many lovers of terrestrial orchids take advantage of this earth to toughen up sensitive seedlings.

VG

Erwin

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BlumenInder

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Freitag, 26. August 2011, 12:39

Quoted from "Mr.. Titanum"

What I critically wonder at your mix of likely is the pH or its stability.
Is the bark compost on gekalkt?

This is also a factor which I have still not so heavily involved. I repeat my bark compost from the nearby composting plant. Here, the Green section is properly composted, reclaimed. Thus no spores or wild herb seeds are so in the compost. According to information, to the pH value of 6 6.5 vary, which is now not so pissed. You can of course still in substrate mix still lime works a, to a clay-humus complex to get what is again positive effect on the substrate properties. I must look times, bringing the time as such. Perhaps you can indeed also times of your substrate experiences tell Bernhard.

Quoted from "Erwin"

Are in the ground which prevent Fäulnissprozesse and tubers and roots mixed Mycorhizza mushrooms with.

I have thought of course not in Amorphophallus a symbiosis with mycorrhiza. You can buy naturally fetig mixed soils in the retail trade, where these spores are already vaccinated. Or loose buys these spores and mixes them if necessary under the substrate.
Here the question of how the different Amorphophallus species react to a symbiosis is me, however. Erwin, did you do in this respect has long term experience? There are already official reading material on the part of the IAS on the subject?

Mit grünen Grüßen

Niels

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Erwin

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16

Samstag, 27. August 2011, 09:59

Substrat

Hello Niels,.

as already written, I've borrowed from my experience in the terrestrial orchids. Now, I use the Neudohum for at least three cycles. Even with tubers, which remained stuck at falling temperatures in the bud, were already cast, or if I had other cultural Err

in Neudohum nothing is scruffy me.

VG

Erwin

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Shreck

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Samstag, 27. August 2011, 11:22

Sounds very interesting. Can you make times a photo of the substrate, so that you can see times how the structure of the substrate is?

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Oldi

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Sonntag, 28. August 2011, 14:10

I have all my tubers in same substrate, such as the Botanical Garden of Stuttgart used it for his plants (normal claims). Originally I bought the substrate me for my passion flowers, as they are grown in the BoGa very well in the substrate. Am very happy with the Earth. No worrying compression over several years. After the first year of Amorphophallus in this earth, I continue to use this substrate for all stinker. As Cormel in the first year I had konjac in cheaper DIY Earth. The Earth was not Earth, but rather black concrete afterwards :icon_explode:

The substrate is a based on white peat substrate without perlite which is in gedüngt. 4 Weeks after the pot up I am beginning always with the fertilizers.

@ Shreck: how is the 20-20-20 fertilizer, which you are currently using?

EDIT: Data to the substrate:

NPK 14-16-18
pH 5, 5-6, 0
Salinity approx. 0.9 g / l

Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 1 mal editiert, zuletzt von »Oldi« (28. August 2011, 14:15)

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Shreck

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Sonntag, 28. August 2011, 16:02

It is called Nährsalz No. 10 by Götz plant accessories

Guckst du here

MfG
Stephan

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Oldi

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Sonntag, 28. August 2011, 16:21

Okay, thank you.
I dung unfortunately God still with liquid fertilizers... I get me Hakaphos etc. but at the very latest until next season.
Have brought by the low-cost fertilizers salt damage to Typhonium venosum me.... :icon_devil:

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