Titanophile,
can anyone tell me whether I have set the following text already once somewhere???
(I've written him in Sept 2007 and found just in a subfolder.) )
Please diligently writes corrections...
and of course your own experiences.
Whether the links are all still valid, need to examine the same again...
Preface:
There are many instructions for care, and that the BOT Garden in Bonn sure the
is, that tried to approach the optimal conditions, in particular
the temperature.
Also for the optimum Earth there are some recipes; the Bonn Earth
works under their conditions well, is in my opinion but for
the most care conditions not permeable enough; the plants are
then maybe sometimes too long too wet. Therefore I am also my Earth mix
(Recipe and link below).
Origin:
Sumatra, so very close to the equator, which however does not mean that the plant is a
needs strict 12-hour day (exposure), but it comes with the
German day lengths also cope....
Location:
In the land of Woods and clearings; that is, there is no
Schattenpflanze and needs for a few hours surely Sun.
In the House, she can safely stand at the Südfenster, without it too much light
Gets. Out there should they part shade are secure (so far)
(Daytime temperatures that allow...)
Temperature:
Optimally safe tropical climate, i.e. like on the Bonn page
(
http://botgart.uni-bonn.de/o_samm/amor96.html )
http://botgart.uni-bonn.de/o_samm/amor.html ,
(
http://botgart.uni-bonn.de/o_down/ku_amorpho.zip) described, 24-34 ° C.
But living room temperature is sufficient surely.
It would certainly important that the pot on a cold Fennsterbank
because the temperature in the root zone is very important and one
cold window sill easily falls under room temperature.
Amorphophallusverrückte make their plants therefore also stimulated times on one
Heating pad (terrarium needs or BioGreen heating pad).
If a radiator is under the window sill, the considerations are also
rather fragile.
Substrate/Earth:
I take here:
per 1/3
-P unit Earth (60% zersetzter little white peat, 40% clay; 1.5 g Volldünger/litre)
(
www.einheitserde.de/produkte/einheitserde.html )
-Perlite (
http://www.perlite.de/industrie/Perlite_im_Gartenbau.html )
-Charcoal 2-4 mm (
www.holzkohle.de/default.htm )
Substrate-links to:
http://www.Malesiana.com/HTML/aroids_pg10.htm
http://www.Amorphophallus-Forum.de/viewtopic.php?t=123
http://www.baumfarn.at/treefern/viewtopic.php?t=1561
There are similar soils such as unit Earth from COMPO, or Floragard, where
There eachtet should be, how much is the proportion of clay.
Casting:
Leave never quite dry.
More wet as wet,
Although by the well-drained substrate a shedding is almost not possible,.
If to ensure, that never longer much water in the tray
stands.
The Earth dries up quickly on the other hand through the loose substrate, so
that you must pour course regularly.
Fertilizing:
The Bonn experts manure Wuxal 1 x per week with 0.3% super
(N + P + K = 8 + 8 + 6), in the winter every 3 weeks.
For home use, it is important that is fertilized at all. It is safe
each Grünpflanze fertilizer, also the cheap Pulle from the grocery store
suitable.
I myself am usually Flory 3 (15 + 10 + 15) or Hakophos special ()
16 + 8 + 22 + 3) or just in summer Flory 1 (20 + 5 + 10 + 2).
ICh dung tickets at each casting with 0.07% (0, 7 g / L Gießwasser) or, if I
the forget accordingly even with 0.2%.
The Bonn still indicate that set the fertilizing course
will, as soon as the tide begins to turn yellow (see also rest period).
Food is the new paper started again, once almost entirely
is unfolded.
Fertilizer-links:
http://www.euflor.de/ under professional users/Flory nutrient salts
http://www.COMPO-ProFi.de/Produkte/3232.php
Rest period:
The Titan Arum forms only a hand under the as Macroperipatus
Corm is growing.
Young plants often make 3-4 leaves one by one, with the subsequent sheets
are often 2 x as large as the previous.
After approximately 1 to 2 years the first rest period occurs, i.e. the sheet yellow
and it drives a new leaf bud immediately.
During the rest period, the plant naturally needs no water, since no
More for water transport and for evaporation there is. Also die
the old roots usually off.
The substrate may but not completely dry out, since the bulb in the
Extreme then begins to dry out and a new sprout is delayed.
The substrate is so damp ideally slightly moist held.
After one or two months is ending the rest and it drives a new
Leaf bud. At the same time grow on the top rings to the tuber
new roots.
As long as the hand is not unfolded, the plant consumes still hardly
Water, so that only little must be poured. If the leaf
will be back to normal cast and fertilized.
On grounds of tropical origin, the Titan Arum knows no course
Seasons. Hence, the rest period can start at any time. Controlled
is that probably endogenous by leaf age, leaf or root size
or the relationship between leaf and tuber. For me this year are about
received 2 / 3 of the tubers in July/August in peace and start again
to exorcise.
Pests:
In addition to the nematodes so urgently warn against which the Bonn, I noticed,.
that A. titanum quite sensitive to aphids; the places where the lice
suck are quickly yellow and the hand can also die in small plants.
Combat can be the aphids, like other sucking pests with imidacloprid.
This systemic agent is for example Lizethanstäbchen or Provado 5WG, where the latter granules
has the best price / performance ratio.
Other pests are not noticed yet.
So, I guess that's the most important thing...
Happy growing, Bernhard.